Posted by John on May 29th, 2013
A few months ago, Lisa picked up a shelf shaped like a doll house from Home Goods. She thought it would look great in our daughter’s toddler bedroom. It was slightly damaged so she managed to swing a decent discount on it. Luckily, the damage wasn’t too severe.
The base is MDF and it looks like a couple corners had been busted up.
So, how to fix it… I thought the easiest way to repair this type of damage was just to cover it with a thin piece of wood. We popped into Michaels a little while back and grabbed some thin pieces of Birch wood. The wood was probably only about 1/8″ thick. After ripping it down to roughly the same width as the bottom block, I cut it to length and gave it some miters on the chop saw and attached it with some wood glue and brad nails. It was just easier to wrap the whole bottom section with the good wood than to just cover the busted sections.
We used some pink craft paint to color the bare wood and we were done. Quick project. Sat around much longer than it should have.
I anchored the shelf to the wall so she won’t be able to knock it over. To do that I just used a couple of 1/2″ thick pieces of plywood and screwed them into a stud on the wall and then screwed the shelf into the plywood. The plywood is the same thickness as the baseboards, so I’m able to butt up the shelf right to the wall. You can barely see the shims from one of the sides.
Our daughter has been keeping some stuffed animals and books in there. She seems to like it.
One day I’m sure we’ll either buy her or make her an actual doll house, but for now, this little shelf is pretty sweet.
Any repairs on your end?
Posted by John on January 6th, 2013
Last week we started discussing our plans for the sitting room immediately attached to our Master Bedroom. Over the weekend we managed to knock a few items off of our to-do list for this space starting with the couch. Lisa’s parents generously bought us a beautiful couch for Christmas from Ikea! We did a walk through of the show room in South Philly a couple weeks before the holiday and picked one out and then just scheduled the delivery in the store. Do I have great in-laws or what? Thanks mom and dad!
Did you know Ikea delivered? I had no idea. I never actually thought about it since I’ve had my Jeep for years and never needed anything from Ikea delivered before. Now that we have our Jetta, I’m going to need darn near EVERYTHING delivered at this point!
Lisa and I picked the EKTORP three seater sofa and got a cover in Svanby Brown. After opening up the box (yes, it comes in a box; yes, assembly is required), I immediately noticed a problem.
There is a long 2×4 board down the length of the couch that has three metal brackets with wood screws. The wood screws had been torn out of the 2x causing some damage. Probably happened during delivery or shipping.
Bummer, right? So, I either send it back, which is a GIANT pain since it was delivered or I can try to fix it. A little while back we did a post on repair screw tear outs on one of our kitchen cabinet doors. This is essentially the same type of repair. All I need to do is get a longer and wider screw and I should be good.
Here’s how to fix a broken Ektorp couch:
Here’s the screws…
The screw on the left is the fastener that came with the couch, the same one that got ripped out. This screw is a size 6 and it’s 1″ long. Wood screws diameters are sized by even numbers up until a 14, which is 1/4″. After that point, they are sized pretty normally (3/8″, 1/2″, etc). So, an 8 is wider than a 6 and so on. The screw in the middle is an 8 and is 1 1/2″ long. The screw on the right is a 10 and is also 1 1/2″ long. My goal here is to use as big and as long a screw as I can. I was able to get away with using a #10 x 1 1/2″. I’m not sure why Ikea didn’t just use a 1 1/2″ long screw to begin with, quite honestly. The board is a 2x, which is 1 1/2″ thick anyway.
At this point I just replaced all the popped screws with the longer, wider size 10s.
All good. The rest of the assembly was a snap.
This particular cover is a little on the coarse side, but still comfortable. We really like it’s casual look.
Underneath the cover is just an underpad. There is no other “couch” underneath the cover, so you DO need some type of cover.
So far, we love it. Great couch. I could’ve done without the repair, but it wasn’t a big deal.
We pulled the permit for the electrical work involved with hanging the flat screen and we’ve been talking a lot about the other furniture we’d like. I’m hoping Lisa lets me build a couple pieces in here instead of buying them. It would be fun.
Show of hands… who else has Ikea sofas? Do you like them?
Posted in Carpentry,DIY Projects,Home Decor,Repairs. Tagged in ,carpentry, ektorp, ikea, repair, sofa
Posted by John on December 3rd, 2012
Hey everybody! Sorry if I’ve been AWOL lately. Work has been pretty crazy and I’ve been unable to read or comment on my regular blog reads. I’m hoping to set aside some time in the next day or two to get caught up. In the meantime, I’ve also been busy with annoying, but necessary repairs around the house. This past week I had to replace our sump pump. As far as technically challenging repairs go… on a scale of 1 to 10, this one is around a 3 or a 4, where changing a light bulb would be a 1 and replacing a furnace is a 10.
So, we’ve lived in our current NJ house for a little over 2 years now and we’ve never, ever heard our sump pump run. Even during and immediately after hurricane Sandy it was quiet. About a week ago, Lisa had been noticing this recurring humming noise coming from the basement. In typical, ‘you’re probably hearing things mode’ I blew it off as just typical furnace noise. Then a couple days later I was in the basement grabbing some tools and I heard it first hand. Crap. The sump pump was running for 30-45 seconds, would stop for 30-45 seconds then would run again. It wasn’t raining, and it hadn’t rained heavily for a couple weeks. Something is wrong with this picture.
If you don’t have a sump pump or are not sure how it works, I can explain. Most new home foundations and a lot of existing homes are outfitted with a perforated plastic pipe that wraps around the outside perimeter near the footer or the base of the basement wall. It then gets covered in gravel to prevent sand and dirt from clogging its slits. This pipe, which can be sometimes referred to as a “weeping tile” (ala Mike Holmes) then runs into the basement into a large bucket. The bucket is equipped with a sump pump that evacuates the water back outside, except it does so away from the house, keeping the foundation dry and less likely to settle further or become disturbed from water erosion.
Here’s what our bucket and evacuation pipe looks like…
The small pipe on the left is the condensate discharge from the central air system. The larger pipe on the right is the outlet pipe from the sump pump. These systems are also vented and may have two large pipes as opposed to one. We DO have a vent in this system it’s just hidden in the basin.
That large plastic box is a check valve.
The check valve prevents the water that was just pumped out from coming back down the pipe and back into the sump bucket. It’s just a little rubber gasket that only opens in one direction. When this pump was continuously running, the first thing I assumed was the check valve wasn’t sealing and it was constantly sending the water back into the basin only to be ejected again. After taking the check valve apart, cleaning it, putting it back together and then plugging the pump back in, it was still running constantly.
Time to investigate further. So, I disconnected the check valve, slid the AC discharge pipe out of the way and popped off the cover to the basin. Couple things I noticed:
1. there wasn’t much water in the bucket, only a couple of inches.
2. there was a spider in there with a leg span about as long as my thumb and with WAY more hair on its legs than mine. I’m generally not afraid of spiders. I was afraid of THIS spider.
Sump pumps usually have some type of float mechanism so when the bucket fills high enough with water, it will switch on. This pump was running AND the float was a couple inches above the water. This thing is straight up broken. Now I could try to repair the switch mechanism or I could just go out and buy a new one, a new shiny one that didn’t have giant banana spiders hidden inside. I think you can guess which way I went on this.
They even sell these in stainless steel! As if it were going to be on our kitchen counter next to the toaster.
The replacement went pretty easy. I disconnected the old sump pump at the check valve union and just pulled it out of the sump bucket. Easy. The new sump pump and the old sump pump have different PVC fittings. Take note, the one on the right has a fitting that goes OVER the threads. The new one is a female type connection, where the PVC will need to go INTO the pump. So much for reusing that pipe.
Here’s a closer shot of the fittings…
So, after assembling a few pieces to the new pump, I glued on the male fitting to a small section of 1 1/2″ PVC pipe. Lowes and Home Depot sell certain diameter pipes in larger 8′-10′ lengths and a few at 4′-5′ lengths. Since this is a smaller section, I opted for the car friendly 5′ piece.
To glue on the male fitting (which I fitted up to the display pump at Lowes to make sure I had the right one), I just placed my pipe on a stable surface to start. You’ll need both the purple primer and the PVC glue for this part.
I applied the purple primer to both pieces and then the glue to both. You need to put these two piece together within a few seconds once you apply the glue or it will harden prematurely.
To glue them together, place the male fitting over the pipe, hold it steady for a few seconds, then try to give it a very slight turn. If you get resistance to the turn, you’re good. I like to hold the piece onto the pipe for maybe 30 seconds to a minute before letting go.
Okay. The new pump was then connected to the pump and placed into the basin. I marked both the new pipe and the old pipe for length taking into consideration a gap for the new check valve.
To cut the new pipe to length, I just used my miter saw.
With the new pipe cut, I added some thread compound to the male fitting and reinstalled the pipe to the new sump pump.
To cut the existing part of the discharge pipe that was hanging from the basement wall, I used a hack saw. You could also use a reciprocating saw, aka a Sawzall, but I find they shake the pipe too much.
The new check valve is a flexible rubber boot style and it slides over the pipes and gets clamped down. You just need to leave some extra room between these pipes for this valve.
Sorry that photo is a little blurry, but you get the idea.
After the new valve was installed, I plugged it in and tested it by lifting up the float. Success!
The flexible check valve let’s you get away with the pipe being slightly misaligned, which is nice.
So, that sucked. Any annoying repairs in your future? Any 8 legged monsters?
Posted in DIY Projects,Fixes,Plumbing,Repairs. Tagged in ,basement, plumbing, repair, replace, sump pump
Posted by John on October 23rd, 2012
Hey guys! Lisa and I are planning getting a new car very soon and we’re pretty excited about it. We’ll fill you in on the details once we make a decision. We’re still looking, but I think we’ll be driving something new in the next couple of weeks! In the meantime, we’re getting the Jeep ready to be traded-in. It’s got 160,000 miles on it and could use some TLC. In this post, we’re going to repair some rust that has been plaguing the driver’s side wheel well. The basic rust repair process in this post should be the same for most cars.
Howto Repair Rust on a Car…
Doesn’t look so hot, does it? I’ve tried to repair it a year ago and it didn’t hold up longer than a few hours. This time is going to be different. I’ve learned the error of my ways.
To start, we’re going to mask off the door into the car to keep rust, paint and body filler dust from getting inside.
Then we sand off the old paint to get down to the rust and bare metal. Make sure to wear a mask. You can see that the area is pretty beat up to say the least. The goal here is to remove as much of the really rusted out metal. You can use a small hammer or a screw driver to knock it loose.
If you tried to apply a body filler material right over the rust, you’d get crappy results. You’ll need to apply a rust converter first and then clean the surface. The rust converter chemically bonds to the rust and makes it a paintable or body filler compatible surface. I didn’t do this step the first time I tried this repair last year. The rust converter and wax and grease remover are all sold at local car parts stores. Be careful with the rust converter, it’s pretty noxious stuff. Read the warning label!!
Once the rust converter is applied, the rust turns to a dark black color.
Now we can add the body filler. The most common product is the Bondo brand. It’s a two part system consisting of the filler and the hardener. You add roughly a pea sized amount of the red hardener to each golf ball sized amount of filler and mix on a hard surface until it’s the same color as the applicator. Then just apply liberally to the affected area and smooth with the applicator. You’ll need to act quickly as it hardens in minutes.
Once the Bondo has hardened about 20 minutes after you’ve applied it to the car, you can take a sander with a course grit sandpaper and smooth out the body filler. If you have a lot of rust on the section you’re working, you’ll probably sand off some of the rust converter in the process. This sanding will expose the rust and will require another coat of the rust converter. If the repair looks good at this point, you can pretty much sand with a 220 grit paper or add more body filler until you’re satisfied.
Since I needed a little more filler, I used what is basically a skim coat to glaze the area. It’s the same process as the body filler, only it’s a little more runny.
After that coat was applied and sanded up to 220 grit, I added another coating of the rust converter and then cleaned off the excess with the wax and grease remover.
Then it was time to prime. I used a grey colored auto primer, which you can get at any auto parts store. The primer is where you’ll be able to see any imperfections in the body filler you might have missed otherwise. If you don’t like your results, you can add more filler and sand, etc. Since this is a trade in, I’m not beating myself up to get it perfect. It just has to look rust free. A close inspection reveals the metal is a bit lumpy looking.
After it’s been primed, I switch to my finish paint color. I bought a spray can online from a company that matches OEM car colors. You just go to their website and enter in your car’s make, model and color and you can select from a variety of different options. I picked a regular can of spray paint, but you could get a quart and use an HVLP gun like the pros. After the matching color, I add a couple coats of a clear gloss finish. Still not done though. You need to wet sand whatever you painted with a 1000 and 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper to get the clear coat smooth enough where it will feel like the rest of the car to the touch. If you skip the wet sanding, you get rough spots that attract dirt. I actually have one of these dirty spots from my first repair attempt last year. I haven’t sanded this one yet either, but I’ll be taking care of that this weekend.
The finished product is okay. It’s not great, but like I said, we’re trading it in and I knew the rust was going to be a hit on our trade in value.
Not bad for a few hours worth of work. If you had a body shop do this kind of repair it could set you back a couple grand. It’s nice to know it’s not that challenging. Of course, the body shop guys are usually highly skilled and you may not get a perfect result compared to them until you really get the swing of it. Hopefully we won’t need to do this to our next car.
Anyone else living with rust on their car?
Posted in Car Stuff,Fixes,Garage and Tools. Tagged in ,auto, body work, bondo, car, jeep, repair, rust
Posted by John on August 24th, 2012
So things have slowed down a little bit around here since we
knocked dragged out our dining room wainscoting and gussied up our front door. It’s going to pick up again soon though. Plus, in the fall I’ll be taking another grad school course. Before we know it, we’ll be busy like crazy. We do have a couple more projects that we already finished and we’ll probably post about those next week. Since it’s Friday, I thought it would be a good opportunity for a quick post on a kitchen cabinet repair we did a few days ago. You’d think owning a new home would negate the need for annoying repairs. Nope. Apparently the cabinet door on our lazy susan decided it had enough and busted out from the hinge.
It looks bad, but in reality, this is an easy fix. Now, if you think you can just re-screw in the old screws and it will hold you’d be wrong. You need to step it up.
The door is 3/4″ thick. The screws that were in there are 1/2″ long. That means I can use a longer screw.
Here’s the screw that popped out next to the screw I’m going to use. The screw on the left is the 1/2″ fastener. The screw on the right is 3/4″ long. I also decided to go with a beefier screw. The 1/2″ screw is a size 6. The 3/4″ screw is a size 8 (they only come in even sizes). So, I’m using a longer and a wider fastener to make the repair. There are a ton of “that’s what she said” jokes here, so I’m being careful with my word choice.
The larger screw went into the old holes like butter and seem to be holding very well.
That wasn’t too bad. Fastest. repair. ever.
Is there anything broken in your place that you need to fix? Have a great weekend!!