Posted by John on March 7th, 2013
If you caught our last post, you saw how we made the inset style doors for our built-in. After letting them sit in the clamps for a couple days, I went about mounting the hinge hardware and installing the doors to the face frame. I thought this would be orders of magnitude easier than the first time I tried to install inset doors, which was in our first home. Back then, I built the cabinet boxes with the face frame and installed them to the wall way before I ever got around to building the doors. Sizing and installing the doors on installed cabinets was a major pain.
Would it be any easier this time, now that I’ve got the face frames spread out on a work table? Meh, it’s still a pain. Even though I sized the doors to fit precisely, it’s still a chore, go figure.
How I install cabinet doors:
As I mentioned in the door build video, we’re reusing the hinges from our first kitchen. We had a bunch leftover and I couldn’t unload them on Amazon for the longest time. Now I’m glad no one bought them! These hinges are very economical, probably around $2-$3 a piece if you find the right vendor.
To make sure they are all spaced properly when I mount them, I’m using a 2″ long piece of wood as a guide. Makes it go quicker.
Installed, the hinges aren’t invisible, but they’re fairly subtle and add some character.
Here’s a top view of the front of the face frame with the doors…
The hardest part about the door install is dealing with the awkwardness of trying to hold the door, the hinge, the drill, the screw, etc. If I had an extra set of hands, it’d be a little easier. Plus, the spacing is tight by design, which means making a lot of adjustments. To make matters worse, all the hardware and the doors are coming off for sanding and painting. I’m going to have to reinstall the doors at the end of the build.
Much to my annoyance, one of the doors is rubbing in two spots. Not majorly, but enough that I’m going to have to shave some wood off in a couple spots.
How will I fix that? I’ll use one of these…
It’s a hand plane. Major old-timer tool. If that doesn’t work, I have an electric version (yes, it’s cheating).
Next week, I expect to be wrapping up the build portion of this project. I’ve already got all the plywood cut to size and machined for joining. I’ll explain that whole process next time, so stay tuned.
Have a great weekend!
Posted by John on August 24th, 2012
So things have slowed down a little bit around here since we
knocked dragged out our dining room wainscoting and gussied up our front door. It’s going to pick up again soon though. Plus, in the fall I’ll be taking another grad school course. Before we know it, we’ll be busy like crazy. We do have a couple more projects that we already finished and we’ll probably post about those next week. Since it’s Friday, I thought it would be a good opportunity for a quick post on a kitchen cabinet repair we did a few days ago. You’d think owning a new home would negate the need for annoying repairs. Nope. Apparently the cabinet door on our lazy susan decided it had enough and busted out from the hinge.
It looks bad, but in reality, this is an easy fix. Now, if you think you can just re-screw in the old screws and it will hold you’d be wrong. You need to step it up.
The door is 3/4″ thick. The screws that were in there are 1/2″ long. That means I can use a longer screw.
Here’s the screw that popped out next to the screw I’m going to use. The screw on the left is the 1/2″ fastener. The screw on the right is 3/4″ long. I also decided to go with a beefier screw. The 1/2″ screw is a size 6. The 3/4″ screw is a size 8 (they only come in even sizes). So, I’m using a longer and a wider fastener to make the repair. There are a ton of “that’s what she said” jokes here, so I’m being careful with my word choice.
The larger screw went into the old holes like butter and seem to be holding very well.
That wasn’t too bad. Fastest. repair. ever.
Is there anything broken in your place that you need to fix? Have a great weekend!!