Since we just wrapped up the biggest home improvement project we’ve had in years, we decided to keep the next few jobs more low key. There’s a laundry list of little things I need to fix around the house. The most annoying one by far involves a couple of our interior doors.
**But if you like our furniture builds, you’ll be happy to hear we’re starting another smaller build later this week.**
But let’s get back to the doors. We have two interior doors that have a problem. They don’t stay shut. One of them is our first floor powder room door. So when we have company, somebody invariably gets a door opened on them by accident. No fun.
To get the door to close you have to lift the door by the handle to get the lock to engage the strike plate. It’s gotten pretty annoying.
Now if you’ve been a reader for a while, you may remember we fixed this problem before on one of our closet doors. I’ll reuse one of the images from that post to explain how this works. We’re going to fix it differently this time around though.
Basically, the weight of the door over time can cause a gap at the top hinge to open up and will also close the gap at the bottom most hinge. When this shift happens, the lock no longer lines up with the strike plate. So to fix it, you need to lift the door back up.
So how do we fix it?
Well, the first time we wrote about this we used a piece of cardboard and stuffed it behind the hinge. That worked for a little while, but over time the door sag returned.
Here’s how we fixed it this time and for good.
How to Fix a Door that Won’t Shut
We’ll start by taking a quick look at our bathroom door jamb. You can see the gap between the door and the jamb is pretty tight at the bottom. It’s pretty much touching at the bottom of the door.
The gap at the top is pretty wide open.
Alright. So, the goal is to open up the gap at the bottom and close the gap at the top. We can do that by taking off the bottom hinge from the door jamb and shimming it out.
Here’s the bottom hinge.
We’ll remove the three screws on the jamb side.
Then I’m going to take some stainless steel washers and set one over each of the screw holes. If they won’t stay put for you, you’ll have to rest them on the screws.
Now I’m going to use some 1″ long stainless steel screws that I bought separately and I’ll reattach the hinge to the jamb. I’m not reusing the original screws since now they’re probably not long enough anymore.
With the hinge back in place, I’m all done. The door closes and latches normally. Success!
You can even see the bottom gap has opened up, which is why the door lock has lifted. We actually had to use two washers behind each hinge screw for our upstairs closet door.
I hope this post will help you fix any sagging door issues in your home! If you think this post is helpful, please share it!
So, last week as you may recall, we added a reverse osmosis system (ROS) to our kitchen sink. How do we like it so far? We love it. The water tastes great and we don’t have anymore plastic water bottles collecting dust all over the house. Wasn’t terribly difficult either, although there were a few tricky steps, like drilling through the stainless steel sink and adding a section of pipe for the drain.
Now, I’m generally a cautious guy. Whenever I mess with plumbing, I usually keep an eye on it for a little while to make sure it doesn’t leak. With the water supply lines, you usually don’t need to do that. They are pressurized and they’ll either leak immediately when the water is turned on or not at all. They CAN have a slow drip, but even those usually materialize sooner than later.
The drain pipes on the other hand, can take a while. They aren’t under any pressure and leaks can be painfully slow to develop. The photo above is our kitchen sink the day after I installed the ROS. See that paper towel and the water pail? Yep. We sprung a leak. The entire left side under our sink had a nice puddle of water in it. The culprit? The right side p-trap. What’s weird about that? I modified the left side p-trap in our ROS install and didn’t even touch the right one. Apparently, I must have bumped it or something when I was messing around with the left side.
How to Fix a Leaking Sink
After a close inspection, I was able to feel a lot of water around the topmost p-trap fitting. So, the first thing I did to remedy this whole situation was to just put some muscle into that fitting and crank it down tight to see if that helped. Since this is a slow drip, I put a dry piece of paper towel under the p-trap and left it alone for a couple minutes. After a little while, I noticed the paper towel had some wet spots. Crap.
The only real option I have at this point is to replace the p-trap and the maybe the tall pipe that has the dishwasher port on it. They readily sell these at home supply stores and they’re very inexpensive. I paid under $10 for both of these parts.
I started the fix by removing the old p-trap. It comes out very easy. You just loosen the two nuts that hold it in place. They’re almost always hand tight. You don’t really need to use a wrench for any of this.
That long pipe came out next. Same deal as the p-trap. Once it was out, I laid it next to the new one and marked the new one so it had the same length. To cut it, I just used a pair of tubing cutters, but you can also use a hack saw.
So our finished photo looks identical to our first photo. Only difference is this one doesn’t leak. To be sure we corrected the problem, I left another piece of paper towel underneath the sink. This time, I left it under there for a couple days. No drips!
What was wrong with the old one? Hard to tell. It’s possible it got bumped and then maybe messed up one of the seals. Who knows? I’m not losing sleep over it.
So, that wasn’t very exciting, but hopefully you learned something about your sink!! Fix ay problems at your place lately?
Hey! Thanks for stopping by. We're Lisa and John and this is our DIY and Home Improvement blog. Feel free to browse our DIY project gallery or our latest posts. You can read more here.
Sign Up to get your copy of our Woodworking Plans