In this post, you’ll learn:
- How to configure a cabinet for installation and counters
- How do get a deep, rich stain
Well, we’re down to the wire in our home office project. Officially, all I have left to do is add some trim beneath the crown molding, install the baseboard trim and do some painting. Keeping my fingers crossed that I’ll be done everything by the end of next week. Then it’s just setup and decorating. So thrilled to wrapping this room up.
I’ve got a bunch of new videos coming your way soon. Hopefully later this week I’ll be publishing my second video on Inset Cabinet Doors. May actually put together a third door film at some point. I’m going to release a video on building the built-in cabinets, so you get a more continuous perspective on the work. I also owe you more videos on my workshop tools, including the miter saw and the jointer. Thanks for your patience on those!
Now let’s talk about some features I added to my cabinets to both make them easier to install AND easier to top with counters.
Here’s a top view of the inside of the base cabinets.
Couple things worth pointing out. There is a plywood brace on top that spans from one side of the box to the other. It’s secured in place with a couple of pocket screws. There’s also a second brace along the back. That’s also a plywood piece that supports the drawer slides and gives me something to secure the cabinet to wall.
Let’s take a look at how I install the cabinet to the wall using the back brace.
First I use a studfinder and mark the walls. Since my brace is set back into the cabinet by a 1/4″, I use a couple of shims and pre-drill my hole. Then I drive a 2-1/2″ long drywall screw through both the shims and the brace until snug. I make sure to use a finish washer for both a better look and it also prevents the screw from digging into the brace.
Once the screw is tight, I’ll score the shims with a box cutter and just snap them off.
The uppers will install the same way, except their back braces are exposed and painted.
The brace that spans the top of the cabinet is for attaching the countertop. I can just drive a couple screws from below and the counter will be snug.
Now for the counters. I used 3/4″ thick oak plywood and the edges are wrapped with oak hardwood to hide the plywood edge. Since the walls aren’t perfectly square, I used a technique that granite installers often employ. I took some cardboard strips (granite guys use luan, which is stiffer) and hot glued them to trace out the footprint of the tops. I then dropped the cardboard outlines onto the plywood sheet and just cut along the lines. After the plywood parts were cut out, I used a brad nailer and some wood glue to attach the oak strips to the plywood.
Our home office also features a center desk section. This is just a large piece of plywood with the same edge banding. Since it’s not sitting on top of a cabinet, it’s actually lower than the built-in counters, it needs to be supported in a different manner. In this case, I’ve attached a few strips of oak hardwood to the cabinets and the wall it butts up against. In the front, to reduce flexing, I’ve screwed in a piece of angle iron that rests on the oak strips. It’s also screwed into the plywood from below.
Here’s a shot of the completed counters.
It took me a few days to get that deep, rich color. Here’s how I did it.
I used three different stain colors. I started out with Varathane’s Black Cherry. I applied it with a sponge applicator and let it set it overnight. I never wiped it off at any point. In fact, I never wiped off any of the stains. Next up I applied a coat of Minwax’s Cherry stain. After letting that set all day, I finished with a coat of Minwax Red Oak. After around 12 hours of drying time, I sprayed on three coats of satin polyurethane using a regular spray can. In between coats of poly, I sanded with 600 grit sandpaper.
I went with the three different stains method to get a more complex look. I’ve never liked the results I get from applying one color and then wiping. I also much prefer spraying on the poly as opposed to brushing or sponging it on since the sponge tends to drag the stain around with it. If you spray the poly, it just layers on without causing much of a mess. Although you do have to watch out for overspray.
So, that’s a sneak peek of our office counters. If you’re interested in the latest photos, you can check them out on our Instagram account.
In today’s post you’ll learn:
- The best way to paint cabinets
- The approach I’m taking to paint my cabinets
Before I get started with today’s post, I want to remind you that we are running a survey to collect your feedback regarding our blog. I’m going to keep it open until the end of this week and then I’ll discuss the results in a follow up post. Overall, the feedback so far has been positive and supremely helpful. I’ve gotten a few comments that recommend I make some changes to the way we operate and I’ll address those suggestions as well. All the comments have been respectful and for that I’m grateful. I’m very happy to have you all as readers and I’d like to keep you engaged and reading, but I realize I have to continue earning that privilege. Changes are a’comin and I think you’ll be happy with the direction we’ll be taking. Before I implement any of those changes however, I need to finish our home office and prep another room (details to follow).
Here’s a link to the survey if you haven’t taken it yet: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/6JB56NM
Now let’s get back to home stuff…
Cabinet Painting 101
In the past week or so, I’ve made a lot of progress with our office cabinets. I’m in the middle of painting them and pretty soon I’ll be installing them, working on the countertops, drawers and room trim. I’m intentionally withholding a lot of details so as to make a comprehensive 30-40 minute long video where I demonstrate the entire build process. While waiting for that video may be a little annoying for you, I think you’ll have a better understanding of the entire process from start to finish. It’s either that or I give you a dozen posts on cabinet building, which I’ve already done with our TV stand and large built-in project. The general approach I’m taking to building these cabinets is similar to those two projects, so if you’re itching to read about cabinet building and you can’t wait for the video, check out those two series. I’m trying hard not to be repetitive.
In this post I want to go over the approach I take to painting cabinets. My process is always evolving and improving so every time I attempt a new cabinet build, I’m switching something up and this project is no different. But before I get into the specifics, here’s my philosophy on painting cabinets and furniture in general.
The Absolute Best Method. The best way to paint cabinets involves spraying two coats of primer followed by spraying two coats of a high quality acrylic paint or lacquer using an HVLP system. If you spray the paint, you won’t get brush marks. You should get an even, smooth finish. It’s how almost all professional furniture is finished. Multiple coats of lacquer will give you that candy coating like finish similar to something you’d see at Ikea. Your car is probably painted with some sort of two part lacquer paint. Acrylic paint is sort of like nail polish. It’s smelly, but gives you a smooth durable finish that will hold up really well over time. You should probably avoid using a latex based paint or primer since they are not designed for furniture, they’re designed for your plaster or drywall.
The Better Method. If you aren’t equipped to spray on four coats of paint or primer, then an alternative method you could attempt is maybe spraying on just the primer or just the finish coats. If you don’t have a professional spray system like an HVLP gun, you can use spray cans. You can spray paint the primer using spray cans and then brush on an acrylic finish paint. Lacquer isn’t typically applied with a brush, so you should probably just skip that stuff. Avoid brushing on all four coats of primer and paint. If your goal is to avoid brush marks, then brush on as few as possible.
Keep in mind that I’m just talking about the paint here, not the prep work on the in-between work. Also, I’m working with unfinished or bare wood, not wood or cabinets that have already been painted or poly’d.
So now that we’ve talked about the possible approaches, let me tell you how I’m finishing my cabinets.
Here’s a shot of the cabinets after the primer.
1. Prep work. After the cabinets were built, I filled in any small brad nail holes with white wood filler. I then sanded each cabinet with a 120 grit sandpaper using my random orbital sander. I avoided rounding over any corners or edges with the sander. I want all of my edges to be fairly crisp at this point. Once every piece had been sanded at 120 grit, I switched to 220 and repeated the same process. Afterwards I used a compressed air nozzle to blow off any sawdust. Some people absolutely avoid using compressed air to do this, but I think it works fine.
2. Staging. Since I’m going to be spraying on the primer, I moved all of the cabinets, doors and shelves into the garage. I used plastic painters tarp and covered the entire floor with plastic. I also draped plastic over our shoe rack and our daughters strollers and toys.
3. Corners. I used a block of wood with some 220 grit sand paper and knocked down all of the corners on every piece. I apply very little force as I run the sandpaper block across all the edges. Again, not looking to round over the edges, just slightly dull them. A corner that gets knocked down will hold the paint better than a sharp edge.
4. More air. I use my compressed air hose that I have piped into my garage and blow off any additional dust that may have built up from moving the cabinets up and rounding over the edges.
5. Raising the grain. Since I’ll be using a waterborne primer, I’ll need to raise the grain. When wood grain absorbs water after it’s been sanded, the wood grains will rise and cause the finish to feel rough. So to make the process easier, you intentionally raise them by getting them wet and then you sand them back down by hand. After they’ve been knocked back down, they won’t rise again. Sounds crazy, but that’s just how it is. To raise the grain, I fill up my HVLP gun with warm water and blast all the cabinets with a light coating of water mist. After an hour of drying time, I lightly sand the cabinets with some 220 grit sandpaper by hand and then blew off any dust with the compressed air.
6. Primer. I used Benjamin Moore’s Fresh Start latex primer. I used it because it’s low-odor, low-VOC and is sprayable. As I mentioned, latex isn’t ideal and it came out just okay. It sprayed a bit chunky from the HVLP system I use, but ended up leveling out ok and seemed to get the job done. In the past, I’ve used a shellac based primer from Zinsser, specifically the BIN primer, which sprayed absolutely perfectly. Thought I’d try something different this time. I’ll probably go back to the BIN for my next project.
7. Sand. After the primer dried, I went back and sanded all the cabinets again using a 220 grit sandpaper by hand. Using a power tool for this may remove too much paint.
8. Finish Paint. For the finish coat, I’m using two coats of Sherwin Williams Pro Classic in Ultra White. It’s the same color as the rest of the trim in the office so it will match the baseboard and crown molding. I bought it in satin instead of semi-gloss though, since I don’t want the cabinets to be too shiny. The crown and baseboard molding WILL be semi-gloss, however. The Pro Classic is an acrylic enamel that it designed for cabinet and trim work. Since it’s an enamel, it will harden and will resist pulling off if I set a book or computer down on it for example (a characteristic referred to as “blocking”). Instead of spraying it, I’m brushing it on. This is also intentional. First off, it’s much easier then spraying. Secondly, it will have a more built-in look if it isn’t perfectly smooth. If this were a stand alone kitchen cabinet set, then I would probably try spraying all the coats. This high quality paint levels very well so you are much less likely to see brush marks. I believe it’s equivalent to Benjamin Moore’s Satin Impervo, which I used on my first house and also loved.
Here’s a sneak peak of a horizontal divider after the first coat. Can you see any brush marks? No? Me neither!
So that’s where I’m at with the cabinets. I’m hoping to wrap them up SOON! Second coat of finish paint is going on tomorrow.
Now I’d love to hear about your experience painting cabinets. Have any tips or experience you’d like to share?
Hope everyone had a happy and safe Memorial Day! Thanks always to those who gave their lives in defense of the freedoms we hold dear.
This past weekend we had a small family get together for our daughter’s Christening. Good times. We also managed to squeeze in some gardening and DIYing, of course. As much as I am a fan of outdoor projects, they beat me up. Outdoor work is HARD! If it’s not the heat, it’s the 400 lb wheelbarrow or the shoveling or the lifting. Killer. We decided to tackler a project that’s we’ve been dying to get to for some time now. Here’s the inspiration pin we’ve been staring at…
We’re going to break this project up into a couple posts, although you’ll get a sneak peak of both in this one. We’ll start with the painting the mailbox. Although the pin doesn’t have a painted mailbox, we wanted to gloss ours up a bit.
Here’s how to paint a mailbox..
We’ll start with what our mailbox looked like before we started.
Nothing special here. The mailbox and post are PVC and were installed by the builder. We haven’t touched it since we moved in. Recently it’s been covered in bird crap and has started to develop some cracking in it. Now, we checked some new ones out at Lowes and there is a black version of this exact same mailbox for around $11. Great deal, right? Well, the low priced black mailbox isn’t as glossy as we were looking for, it was more of a matte finish and the glossy ones were metal and started at around $30 (a couple were $60). We already had a can of gloss black spray paint, so we only had to spend around $3 for a can of primer. Good deal.
After thoroughly cleaning the mailbox with some dish soap and water while it was still attached to the post, we removed it to paint it. It was attached to the mounting bracket with four screws.
We also snapped off the front cover and the red flag. It was much easier to paint them without them attached.
We primed the pieces in the garage over some cheap plastic tarp. Here’s a tip: to avoid the mailbox (or whatever else you’re spraying) from sticking to the tarp, move the part in between sprays that way the paint won’t build up in one spot on the tarp.
After two coats of grey primer and two coats of gloss black, we re-installed it onto the post. The grey primer was perfect since we were going from a white to a dark color like black.
Here’s how it looks now.. you can see the flower bed as well, although we’re still working on that.
If I knew it was going to be that easy, I would’ve done this much sooner. It also helped that we worked on it during a holiday, so there was no mail delivery to deal with. We still have to add a couple more plants, put in some weed screen and then mulch it.
What did you do this weekend?
Happy Tuesday! Sure beats Happy Monday, am I right? We are just moments away from wrapping up our built-in project. All the cabinet work has been primed and painted, I just need to add a second coat to some areas. I don’t know if I’ve ever shared the basic process I follow when I sand and paint furniture. I have a habit of repeating myself, which Lisa loves to gently remind of me from time to time. So, if you know how to sand and paint furniture, just skim the photos and stop by later to see the finished built-in.
Sanding and Painting Unfinished Furniture
I start with my random orbital sander (ROS). I picked this sander up last year when we were working on our sliding drawer project. It was relatively inexpensive and works great. ROSs are the most versatile of the electric sanders and work well with most projects. The other options are the vibrating pad or reciprocating sanders and the belt sanders. The reciprocating sanders aren’t bad either, but they only shake in one direction so they require more work on your part to use them effectively. Belt sanders are better for bigger more aggressive sanding work and should probably be skipped for regular woodworking projects. ROSs are the Goldilocks of sanders.
The sand paper for the ROS comes as a disc with either an adhesive or velco backing, which makes swapping them out a quick process. For most woodworking projects, if I have wood that is in good shape and doesn’t have any gouges or scratches in it, I use a 120 grit paper. The 120 is abrasive enough to take down sharp edges, but gentle enough that it won’t majorly scratch your work. If I need to remove a lot of material or repair deep scratches I’ll start with a 40 or 60 grit paper. The lower the number, the more abrasive the paper.
After I’ve sanded all the visible surfaces with the 120, I switch to a 220 grit paper and repeat the process. Since this is a paint grade project, that’s as far as I’ll go. Some higher quality or stain grade projects may require a 330 grit paper to polish the wood further. While sanding I also make sure to take the sharp edges off all the corners. A knocked down edge will hole the paint or stain much better than a sharp edge. Plus, it feels better on your hand.
You know you’re done sanding when the project feels baby soft to the touch. To prep the piece for painting, use either a compressed air source to blow the work clean or shake it and wipe it down.
For the painting process, I start with a spray primer. I’m a stickler for this part of the painting process. Most paint grade projects I work on will get about four coats of paint, 2 of primer and 2 of the finish coat. I try to spray the first two coats of primer. The reason being, brushes and rollers leave marks, however well executed and subtle. Spray paint leaves a near perfect finish. So, it’s better to have a smooth base and some brush marks on the last couple coats than four coats of brush marks. Get it?
If you don’t have a spray system with an HVLP gun like we used on our wainscoting project, you can use a regular can of spray paint/primer. I used a few cans of Valspar primer from Lowes for this project after my HVLP spray paint ran out. The more coats of spray paint you use, the smoother your result will be. To get that Ikea-like candy coating, if that’s what you’re after, use the spray primer followed by several coats of spray lacquer including a few clear coats of lacquer. Be sure to sand lightly with a 330 grit or higher paper or steel wool in between coats.
Since this project is a built-in, we want it to match our baseboard molding and look like it’s part of the wall. To get that look, we’re following the primer with a couple coats of regular semi-gloss latex trim paint from Sherwin Williams (Shell White). Regular latex paint is not ideal for book cases or anything where you’ll have inanimate objects sitting on it for long periods of time. Reason being, the latex will get stuck to whatever you rest on it eventually and peel off. Ideally, we should use a high quality furniture paint that resists that sort of sticking, which is called “blocking”. You want a paint with good “blocking” resistance. Enamels and lacquers are great for that feature, latex paint not so much. So why are we using it? Well, as I mentioned, we want the built-in to match the house trim, so that’s what we’re stuck with. I’m hoping the primer we used will help prevent some of that sticking nastiness. Time will tell.
What’s a good product for furniture painting that resists blocking? We used Benjamin Moore’s Satin Impervo on the kitchen cabinets from our first home and we loved how it came out. Ask around though. Professional painters seem to have some strong opinions on their favorite products.
So that’s my two cents on sanding and painting. Hope you got something out of it.
Baby #2 is not here yet, either just in case you were wondering. Anyone else suffering through some painting projects at the moment?
Hey guys! We finally finished painting our daughter’s new toddler bedroom this weekend and we’re very happy with the color we chose. I’ve also started assembling some of the Hemnes Ikea furniture that she will probably use until college (yikes). Looking good so far. We’re planning on at least a few more posts on her bedroom, so I’m not going to show you everything today.
Here’s how the room looked before the paint..
and here’s how it looks painted…
one more time..
We went with Sherwin Williams Popular Gray (6071). It’s a touch lighter than what I wanted to go with and a touch darker than what Lisa wanted. We compromised and met in the middle. It’s a hue or two lighter than “Perfect Greige,” which is 6073, but it’s definitely in the vein we were aiming for. Big fan of it so far. I wasn’t sure how it would look against the darker beige/light brown carpet, but I think it looks fine. Ideally, we’ll be ripping these carpets out eventually (couple years yet) and installing some dark hardwood to match the rest of the house.
In case you haven’t seen our planning post, we were inspired by this pic from pinterest..
In terms of wall color, I’d say we’re pretty close. Plus, if you look closely, you can see a light brown carpet under the night stand.
I’m still banking on Lisa giving me the go-ahead for some custom shelving, but it may be a while. We’ll need something to store her toys and shelves for books. I really like this option we found on Pinterest…
I’d have to re-scale it to make it more kid friendly, but that wouldn’t be too hard.
Are you painting or planning to paint? Are you more into the neutrals like we are or do you prefer louder tones?
Hey everybody! Hope all of our American friends safely and joyfully slept off their turkey induced comas. Lisa and I had a great holiday with our family. Thursday we drove up to Northeast PA and had dinner at my mom’s house. Driving for two hours back home after eating turkey can be dangerous, but luckily we made it back safe and sound. Friday was shopping and turkey round two with Lisa’s family.
A couple weeks ago, we finally got around to painting our upstairs hall bathroom. It’s been plain builder grade white since we moved in over two years ago. Since its our hall bath upstairs, it’s reserved for our daughter and the occasional overnight guests.
Here’s a shot of the bathroom before we moved in.
Actually, a while ago, we showed the bathroom as a sneak peak in our 5 Tips for New Home Builders. When we built, we opted to skip the large builder grade mirror and instead asked the builder not to install anything at all. They were totally fine with that idea. After all, it was less work for them. We installed a couple Ikea Kolja mirrors instead for a more personalized look.
You can see that greenish shower curtain we added after we moved in. In keeping with that scheme, we picked Sherwin Williams Tidewater for the wall color. Lisa originally wanted a neutral bathroom, but once she found that shower curtain a few years ago she changed her mind.
The light bulbs in these shots distort the look of the room a little bit. We had CFLs in the vanity light, but switched to a clear filament bulbs for most of the after pictures. It’s a much whiter light.
We’re very happy with the color! Even though the room is still builder grade, the paint plays well with the white vanity and tile. If we never do another upgrade in this room, I’ll be fine with it. I’ve been asking Lisa to think of some crafts or artwork to dress the room up (100% her department). We do need to add a little more character me thinks.
How was your Thanksgiving break? Get any projects done?
***UPDATE: The woodworking plans for this Shoe Organizer have just been uploaded to our Plans page. To get access, just subscribe to our free newsletter using the sign-up form in the sidebar or following this post. Immediately after you subscribe, you’ll get an email with a link to the Plans page.***
Hope you all enjoyed your Veteran’s Day, especially if you were home from work like I was! Big thanks to all those who served and those that continue to serve today. With the extra free time this weekend, I was finally able to get the garage shoe organizer finished! Jackpot.
After finishing up the build portion of the project, I brought the piece up to the garage for painting. The plan was to spray on a couple coats of white primer and then follow that up with a couple coats of black gloss. Those plans changed once I started spraying the primer.
I had a hard time getting good coverage in between those shelf areas. It took some contorting. It also took a lot of primer. I went through 3 cans! I couldn’t believe it needed that much. So instead of repeating this process with the black gloss, I just opted for a small roller and a brush. I’m kinda picky when it comes to painting. Spray paint is almost always my first choice. You get a nice even coat that looks professional. Using a roller and a brush is nice, but it can leave brush marks and it never goes on as smooth.
But, you know what? This piece is plywood and it’s going to be holding our shoes in the garage. It’s not going to be in the Guggenheim. I can roll the darn thing.
You know what? It didn’t come out too bad. The roller and brush method worked just fine. To install the shelves to the wall, I used toggle bolts for the top two holes and regular screws for the bottom set. The bottom brace on the shelf coincided with some lumber in the wall.
The toggle bolts are great for holding heavier objects to drywall. I trust them over molly bolts any day. To use them, I just drilled two holes in the top plate with a drill bit just a touch bigger than the diameter of the bolts.
To recess the bolt a touch, I then used a bigger drill bit and only drilled the hole halfway through the wood. Unfortunately, the plywood tore out some. You can eliminate this tear out by either using tape over the hole or starting the drill before you engage the bit with the wood. No big deal though. I can touch up the paint or just cover the holes. If I were using regular hardwood and not plywood, I wouldn’t expect this type of damage from drilling. But, with plywood, those laminate layers can tear occasionally. Oh well. Lesson learned.
The toggle bolts are a two piece system. You actually need to setup the bolt onto the piece you’re fastening before you insert anything into the wall.
The other catch with toggle bolts is they need a large hole drilled into the drywall. These required a 5/8″ size hole. That’s pretty sizable. The biggest bit I have in that range is 1/2″. To get to 5/8″, I just worked the hole a bit. It’s easy to expand drywall.
Once the bolts are inserted into the wall though, they grab pretty good. As long as no one really puts any major weight on this shelf, they should hold nicely.
I like it. More importantly, Lisa likes it. It works pretty well too. We put enough shelves in there just in case they start piling up out there.
So now more piles of shoes all over these steps. Makes going in and out a little less of a hassle.
If you can’t tell from some of those photos, the garage overall still needs a good amount of cleaning up. Trying to make some time to get to that, but it’s not easy. It tends to be somewhat weather dependent too.
Planning on any projects in your garage? How do you keep your shoes organized?
Hey everybody! Hope you’re enjoying the cool Fall weather we’ve been having recently. It really puts me in the mood to decorate for Fall and buy more pumpkins!… and apple cider donuts!! This year we’re keeping our home’s fall themed decor simple by reusing some of the decorations we had up last year and adding a couple small yet festive new ones.
Our front door is finally finished. John just painted the sidelights to match the front door. If you recall, they were still somewhat blue-er than the gray door. The door was originally this gray color, but we attempted to paint the sidelights and the door a year ago and didn’t get the color right. Here’s the before, with the door painted the right gray color but the wrong sidelight color…
Here’s the door now, complete with a very cool blue pumpkin… If you don’t notice the color difference in the sidelights from the before and after, it’s okay, it’s pretty subtle.
We also picked up some burnt orangey mums.
On the inside of the house, we added a burlap wreath. We made the wreath ourselves from some basic craft supplies.
Our mantel looks nearly identical from last year, with the pumpkin banner and all my little pumpkins I’ve been picking up.
I also like to add some fall theme ribbon to my normal home decor to dress it up a little. See those orange ribbons around the candles? There are more than a few of those around here.
Like on my fleur de lis candles…
That’s what’s in our home at the moment. I’ll admit it, I had these decorations ready to go the day after Labor Day! I’m sure I’ll be adding a few more pumpkins here and there! Fall is the best! We’re looking forward to visiting a pumpkin patch with the baby soon!
Enjoy your decorating!! Looking forward to seeing everyone’s decor.
Hope everyone is enjoying the last few weeks of summer. While I love the fall, I’m hanging on to the warm weather like it’s my job. I’m sure I’ll get into it once it’s here, but for now it’s going to stay summer around here until the leaves change color. Last weekend we knocked out a bunch of projects and posted about two of them: the dining room wainscoting and the outside portion of the front door. Today we’re going to show you what we did to the inside of the front door…
Lisa has been looking to add some character to our vestibule and had seen other people paint their front entry door. She thought it would look pretty slick if we painted ours black. We picked up some black no-VOC paint from Sherwin Williams and knocked out both the exterior side and the interior.
Lisa was excited about this if you couldn’t tell.
We wrapped the door frame in painter’s tape and I scuffed up the existing paint with some 220 grit sandpaper.
It took us around 4 or 5 coats of the semi-gloss black to completely hide all the white. Now the door is a wood/foam core, but the outer layer is vinyl. To get the look of a solid wood door, we applied the paint with a small roller and then used a dry brush to even it out. If you brush the wet paint in certain directions, you can give the appearance of wood grain. I drew up a guide if you’re not familiar with the basic process.
Just smooth out the wet paint with a dry brush in the arrow directions shown above and you’ll get a clean, professional look.
We’re very happy with how it came out. Definitely breaks up the white trim. Amazingly difficult to take a quality photo of this door though in broad daylight.
I took a few pictures in the evening.. came out a little better.
One downside we’ve noticed is at night, whenever we glance at it, it seems like it’s open. We’ve been doing double takes.
Any door improvements you’re working on?
Finally. We’re done the dining room wainscoting project. Yep. All done. Well, except for some minor paint touch ups and a little bit of caulking. BUT, it’s on a 6″ section of doorway baseboard molding, so.. technically, it’s not really IN the dining room. So, like I said. We’re done. High five.
I don’t want to seem like we’re spiking the football here. We posted last week when we finished up the painting and we got a lot of very kind comments. I almost feel guilty posting about it again. Almost.
We started the planning for this project back in February with an intro post. We started the demolition and electrical work in March and April. The actual trim carpentry started on May 15. So, it took us about 6 months from planning to final brush stroke. Yikes. It was worth it. Here’s a more thorough wrap-up of the work that went into the dining room.
Our Dining Room Wainscoting Project, the Cliff’s Notes.
A year ago, the room was completely unpainted. We still have quite a few rooms in this builder boring state at the moment.
We started the upgrade process by adding some molding beneath the crown and painting it all semi-gloss white. Then we painted the room accessible beige by Sherwin Williams.
Then the rest of the process went like this…
– Removing the existing chair rail molding
– Adding a new outlet behind the buffet
– Planning the options, look and layout of the wainscoting
– Installing the poplar frame (1, 2, 3, 4)
– Adding the MDF panels
– Adding the bolection molding and capping
And now we’re all done…
You know you’re getting old when wainscoting is considered eye candy.
Couple things to note. See if you caught this. The dining room table is missing a chair. It was in another room when I was taking the pictures. Oops. Lisa noticed. I didn’t. Also, we’re going to be adding some additional decor items at some point and eventually replacing the cellular window shades. For now though, this is fine.
Any items you’re dying to remove from your to-do list?
Hey! Thanks for stopping by. We're Lisa and John and this is our DIY and Home Improvement blog. Feel free to browse our DIY project gallery or our latest posts. You can read more here.
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