Garage and Tools
Posted by John on July 13th, 2014
If you’ve been following along lately, you know that we’re knee deep in our home office renovation. In our last post, we discussed the work we’ve done to date and what work was coming soon. We’re starting the second half our office project today by upgrading my main workshop power tool, the table saw. For what it’s worth, you can expect a lot of workshop posts and videos in the coming weeks.
Here’s my current table saw, a Hitachi.
What I like about it… It’s a great table saw. It’s powerful, it’s lightweight, portable and it’s perfect for most DIY projects. (By the way, on our Tool Recommendations Page, I recommend the Bosch model instead since it permits dado blades, whereas the Hitachi does not. So, if you are in the market for your first table saw, consider the Bosch over the Hitachi.)
Now for what I don’t like about this saw and frankly, contractor saws in general. It’s not such a great cabinet saw, which means it’s not ideal for cutting big plywood sheets. It’s a bit undersized, so larger pieces of plywood tend to be more of a challenge than I’d like. The table will move or wobble slightly when I place a larger sheet of wood down on it and it doesn’t have much of an outfeed setup. For long pieces of wood I have to walk around the back of the saw and pull the piece through once it starts hanging off the back. I’m sure that’s pretty common for people who use these types of saws, but it’s not ideal nor is it very safe, folks. It also only allows cuts up to around 24″ or so, which also isn’t great for wide cabinet parts.
While I’d love to buy a full blown cabinet saw, those are pretty pricey and would really only be worth my investment if I opened up a cabinet shop (not interested). Here’s an example of what a cabinet saw looks like:
This is a Grizzly brand table saw (affiliate link). Now THIS is a cabinet saw. You can click the link to see how much it costs, but it’s close to $2k. My hitachi was around $300. Yeah. Not interest in spending that sorta dough. Eventually, I plan on buying one way down the road, but I’m not in any hurry. These saws have powerful motors and huge table tops. They are VERY heavy and don’t move a lick when you slap a board down on them.
So what to do? Well, I’ve decided to make a sort of hybrid table saw station similar to something I saw on New Yankee Workshop years ago. I’m building a 2×4 framed work table that will feature a melamine top and a more professional Biesemeyer fence. My Hitachi table saw will then sit inside this workstation and have access to a larger work surface. I’m going to build this new table to the same height as my workbench, which will be able to act as either an outfeed or infeed table.
Here’s how it’s coming together so far.
Table Saw Upgrade #1
I started the build by measuring the dimensions of my Hitachi taking into account that the mobile base it’s attached to will be removed. I then took those dimensions, drew some rough sketches on paper and added in some length and width for the fence system. I start construction on the top frame, since that’s probably the most critical piece.
The sides are 2x4s and the front and back are 2x3s. A lot of this wood I had left over from our coffered ceiling framing. I joined the pieces together using pocket screws and liquid nail, but regular wood screws through the sides would work just fine too.
I then flipped the frame over and started adding the internal frame boards.
The large open space is where the table saw will be located. The rest of the table top will be melamine. While I haven’t finished cutting out all of the melamine, you can get an idea of what it will look like with the last piece. I want the melamine to be recessed into the framing, which will make more sense later.
I’m hoping to finish the legs and sub framing later this week. This quick project will hopefully make the cabinet project much easier.
So what’s your table saw situation? Do have have a contractor’s saw? Know anyone with a cabinet saw?
Posted in Carpentry,DIY Projects,Garage and Tools. Tagged in ,table saw, tools, workbench
Posted by John on April 14th, 2014
Well it’s been a couple months, but I’ve finally finished my latest set of free woodworking plans. This time it’s my simple router table.
I first built this simple router table when I was adding raised panel wainscoting to our dining room. It’s not perfect, but it’s a lot better than those $100 tables you get from Sears or your hardware store.
To get access to these free router table plans, simply subscribe to our free newsletter.
Posted in DIY Projects,Garage and Tools. Tagged in ,free plans, router table
Posted by John on September 17th, 2013
It was a good summer. I only got sun burned once. Or twice. Got to the beach a few times. Good stuff. As far as home improvement projects go, this summer wasn’t too bad either. Let’s take a look back and see what we got done and what we postponed.
We started off the summer with a post on our Spring and Summer Goals where we listed around 9 projects. We got a whopping 2 done. It’s just like that Meatloaf song, “Two out of Nine Ain’t Bad.” Not one of his better hits.
The first outdoor project we attempted was the DIY Concrete Planter. We had mixed results with the monogram, but overall we still really like the planter. I am still planning on retrying this soon. We’re going to double down and make two at the same time and try to make them darker.
After the mailbox work, we shifted gears and finished redesigning and coding our own WordPress Theme. This upgrade had been hanging over my head for months. I really like the feel of the new theme, but there are still a number of changes I want to incorporate.
Before heading back into the garage, we installed some UV window film to prevent further sun damage in our entryway. It was tricky to install, but it will probably end up saving us hundreds of dollars worth of damage to our stained wood.
Finally, we finished work on our garage improvement. That alone was around 9 or 10 posts.
So what did we skip? For the most part, landscaping. We still need to clean up our side flowerbeds (see the hot mess above). One is heavily overgrown and the other needs a tall shrub or tree to anchor the layout. In order to get it done now though, we would have to rush through it. So, we’re punting it until the spring. Womp Womp.
We have a lot of exciting Fall work lined up and we’ll be building some new furniture shortly. So stick around!
How much summer work did you get done? What did you skip?
Posted in Garage and Tools,Outdoors and Landscaping. Tagged in ,Garage and Tools, Landscape
Posted by John on September 15th, 2013
It’s finally starting to get a little chilly around here. I’m not calling it Fall yet though. I’ll wait until the official start of Fall before I give up on summer. I have one week left. I’m going to enjoy it. In the meantime, we finally finished up our garage improvement series that we started way back in the spring. Here’s a complete recap.
We attempted this less than glamorous effort because we’re in and out of this space a few times a day and we couldn’t stand the clutter, the bugs and the general grime. I’ll openly admit that all of the junk in the garage was mine. All of the car stains on the floor were from my Jeep and all of the crap on the workbench was left over from finished or unfinished projects that I started. This was my problem.
It was pretty ugly.
Yes, that IS my high school letterman jacket. I lettered in Cross Country, thank you. No, I don’t wear it. Not sure how it ended up on my workbench.
Here’s where we are today.
Let’s go down the list of all the projects we knocked out to get us to this point.
1. Garage Shoe Rack: Completed last Fall, but instrumental in adding some organization to the space.
2. Workbench Pegboard: Helped add some visual interest to the wall above the workbench. Gave me spot to hang my air hose and extension cables.
3. Bug Proofed the Windows: Probably my favorite garage project next to the epoxy floors. Our windows are STILL bug free today.
4. Compressed Air Pipe: Allowed me to relocate our large air compressor to the basement without giving up access to the air source.
5. Workbench Outlet: Provided some much needed juice for our power tools.
6. Charging Station: Organized my power tool chargers.
7. Epoxy Floor Paint: Biggest impact to the space. Garage looks worlds better with it.
8. Wall Hooks: Got a lot of my gear off the floor and onto the wall. Feels a lot less cluttered.
I’m getting tired just looking at that list. That’s a lot of projects for a garage. We’re not completely done yet either. Lisa still wants to paint the door and the steps black. Not sure if we’re going to paint the trim black as well. I may try to wiggle my way out of this one until the spring. TBD.
In our next post, we’ll wrap up our summer outdoor projects. Also, look for a reader survey shortly.
Posted in Garage and Tools. Tagged in ,Garage and Tools, organization
Posted by John on September 12th, 2013
This post stinks. Well, our trash cans do anyway. Before we wrap up our garage improvement series, I felt I needed to go where no home blogger has gone before and talk about the trash. There are two types of people out there: those that keep their trash cans in the house and those that keep them in the garage. We’re the latter. A couple months ago, Lisa went out to the garage to throw a bag into the trash can and came back in the house shrieking. Apparently, there were maggots all over the rim of the bin and she wasn’t going anywhere near it. That got me thinking. What’s the best way to keep our trash free from odors and insects. I came up with these tips for cleaner trash cans.
Some of these tips will be supremely obvious, but others you may have ever occurred to you.
1. Don’t Throw it, Place it. I have a habit of opening up the trash lid and then heaving my bag full of discarded slop right into the bin without a second thought. Why that’s a bad idea: If the bag isn’t placed right side up, it can leak out its contents right from the top of the bag into the bin. That liquid mess then becomes a Golden Corral for a hoard of house flies. Even if you manage to toss the bag into the bin right side up, you risk tearing the bag open from the impact.
2. Double Bag the Nasty Stuff. We have two little kids. On any given day, we are knee deep in dirty diapers. Every week, it seems I need a fork lift to deposit all of our kids’… deposits.. into the garbage can. Now, if I can smell the odor through the bags, chances are our 6 legged friends can too. I like to double bag those diaper hauls, but I don’t merely drop one bag into the next, I cover the top of the first bag with the second. That way, it’s pretty impossible for a fly to make it into the inner bag OR for a … deposit… to make its way out.
3. Deodorize. I’m sure somebody somewhere makes a deodorant for exterior trash cans. A quick and cheap option is to poke some holes in a box of baking soda and duct tape it to the bottom of the bin. If you don’t tape it, it’ll get tossed with the rest of the trash.
4. Compost and Dispose. Since we have a septic system and not a sewer, we don’t have an in-sink garbage disposal. Consequently, everything that can’t be recycled needs to be tossed in the trash. That’s a bummer for us, but if you do have a garbage disposal, you can greatly reduce the amount of waste that gets put in the trash. That’s a good thing for garbage odor. Additionally, if your township allows it (some actually don’t) you can start a compost bin for food items that are safe to compost. Lisa and I will be starting a garden sooner or later so we need to get on that.
5. Wash it. Maybe once a year, it can’t hurt to hose and scrub down the bin. I use a scrub brush on an extension rod and clean the whole thing down with liquid dish washing soap and then follow it up with deodorized powder laundry detergent. It’s still a trash can, but it smells a whole lot better.
Are you an inside the garage person or an outside the garage person? If you don’t have a garage or are a city dweller, how do you keep it from getting out of hand?
Posted in Garage and Tools. Tagged in ,Cleaning, garbage, trash
Posted by John on September 8th, 2013
With our summer winding down and the fall quickly approaching, it’s finally time to do something about our garage floor. A few months after we moved into our current home three years ago, I applied a grey, 2-part epoxy paint to the garage floor. We had mixed results. In some areas, the epoxy seemed to go down smoothly and in others it looked liked it could’ve used another coat or two. It was almost as if the concrete absorbed some of the paint in some spots without really building up any protection. Of course, a couple of those poorly covered areas just happened to be right below my old Jeep’s engine.
Not looking so hot there. A proper epoxy coating should prevent oil, water and other crap from permanently staining a garage floor. No amount of scrubbing was going to remove that eyesore.
Here’s the catch with epoxy paint, it’s a chemically hardening coating that cures within a few hours (regular paint air-dries) so second or third coats aren’t an option unless you want to buy a whole other kit. Moreover, kits can range in price from $50-$90. Yikes.
I managed to spot this kit from Valspar at Lowes on sale for $58 last weekend, so I grabbed it. I also picked up a gallon of concrete bonding primer even though the epoxy kit doesn’t require its use, but I figured it couldn’t hurt.
Initially, I had some concerns with applying a second coat of epoxy paint over a floor that had already has epoxy paint. Wasn’t sure it would adhere properly. The directions in the kit though, say as long as the paint isn’t peeling up or chipping, it’s good to go. Sweet.
First thing I did was give the floor a good thorough scrubbing with soap and water. I used a squeegee to push the water back out into the driveway and let it dry overnight.
The next day, I primed a couple spots with the concrete bonding primer. I stuck with the discolored areas and anywhere I had some of the epoxy lift up from tire marks. The primer dries clear and must be followed up with the finish paint within 1-4 hours or it needs to be re-primed.
The epoxy kit is available in a variety of colors, but the most common are tan and grey. We stuck with grey for this one. In the kit box, there is a can of hardener, the base coat, a small container of paint chips and a bottle of floor cleaner/etcher. We skipped the paint chips the first time we did the floor, but we wanted to add them this time. I also skipped the etcher since this isn’t a bare concrete floor and it’s also a pretty nasty chemical. Oh, but they do give you a stirring stick! Jackpot!
To get started, the hardener is dumped into the base can and stirred. Once it’s all blended, it has to sit for maybe 20 minutes or so. The instructions recommend the epoxy first be applied along the perimeter with a wide brush. It’s then rolled on with a regular paint roller. I would roll down 3-4 feet of epoxy going the width of the garage and then stop and shake out the color flakes. It seemed like I was throwing down a ton of flakes, but after finishing for the night, I still had maybe half of the container left.
The kit is sized for a one car garage, but I easily could’ve finished nearly our whole two-car garage with just the one kit. I plan on picking up another kit to finish the rest of the garage later this week.
I also have a workbench, storage locker and other crap that I didn’t want to remove completely from the garage to do this upgrade, so the plan is to shift them over to the finished side later this week to give me access to the unfinished side.
In the photo below you can see the stark contrast between the newly finished and previously finished floors.
Here’s a wide shot of the before…
and here’s the after…
Couple of things to be aware of… I would use gloves and a mask. This stuff stinks!! In fact, we left our garage door open all day Sunday to just air it out. It’s epoxy paint, so getting it off your hands isn’t going to be fun either. If you need more color chips, they are sold separately at Lowes in a variety of colors if you want a more custom look.
We’ll show you what it looks like when it’s all done. We’re also going to be painting those small foundation walls with our next kit. Fun stuff. Fun stuff.
Has anyone else used this epoxy paint? How did your results turn out?
Posted in DIY Projects,Garage and Tools. Tagged in ,epoxy, garage floor
Posted by John on September 2nd, 2013
We hope all of our American friends had a safe and enjoyable Labor Day! Our weekend was filled with family visits and some much needed down time. Today we’re going to show you how we finished up our new garage outlet and how we added a workbench charging station.
Let’s start with the garage outlet.
Last week we had our rough-in inspection from the township electrical inspector. It went well. He passed us so we can “device out” the work, which means add the new outlet.
To power the new outlet, we tapped into the power from an existing GFCI outlet in our basement. I had to remove this basement outlet as part of the rough-in work and show the inspector I ran the cable properly to the box and tied it in appropriately.
After inspecting this box, he recommended I increase its size to accommodate the additional cable. The box already had three cables going to it and this new circuit added a fourth. Thus, he wanted to see a slightly bigger box. So, I had to untwist all my cables, pull them out of the box, take the box off the lumber and then add a bigger box.
The new box is considered “new work” whereas our garage outlet is “old work.” The difference is the basement outlet box is being directly attached to a wall stud. The garage outlet was placed into a finished drywalled space. The new box is also plastic and has a couple 1/2″ tabs that help me position the box onto the studs. The box shouldn’t be installed flush with the studs, but 1/2″ further out for future drywall.
This new box wasn’t that much bigger than the first, only by a couple cubic inches. Here’s a side by side comparison of the old grey box next to the new blue one. I believe the grey box is 18 cu. inches and the blue one is 20 or 21 cu. inches.
The box was then rewired as before and since I had the go ahead to device out the project, I reinstalled the GFCI outlet.
With the basement outlet wired, I installed my garage outlet, turned the power back on at the breaker and checked to make sure the circuit worked okay. That’s it for the electrical portion. In a few weeks, I’ll call the inspector back for the final inspection.
Now let’s take a look at the workbench charging station.
The only other outlet we have in our garage is on the far wall so any battery chargers for cordless tools had to sit on the floor, which wasn’t terribly convenient. Getting them off the floor and onto the workbench was the goal.
I started by picking a spot on the workbench where my chargers would be located then drilling a hole in the workbench top with a hole saw.
I ran the charger power cables through the hole so the top will be less cluttered.
Next, I mounted a $5 power strip I bought at Lowes to one of the legs of the workbench. Then I just zip tied all the cables together and plugged them in.
So now all I have to do is flip the red switch on the power strip whenever I want to charge my tools. I also looked into buying one of those 10-12 outlet benchtop power strips instead. That’s a great option too, but it was $30 and I thought this option would be more a little more practical. $25 cheaper isn’t a bad thing either.
We are fast approaching the end of our summer long garage improvement series. We only have a couple projects left: adding another application of epoxy to the garage floor and painting the interior door and steps. There are a few yard projects I also want to knock out before we get into October, but we’ll go more into those in another post.
How are you wrapping up your summer? Are you looking forward to Fall or are you desperately hanging on to every last summer day like me? Bought any pumpkins yet?
Posted in Electrical,Garage and Tools. Tagged in ,Garage and Tools, workbench
Posted by John on August 20th, 2013
We’ve been slowly plugging away at our garage clean up effort. There are a couple projects I don’t think we mentioned yet that are post worthy. I just finished adding a compressed air system that allows me to relocate the 30 gallon compressor from the garage into the basement. I’m also adding an electrical outlet so I can move my battery chargers to the work bench. Granted, these aren’t terribly exciting projects, but if you’re not familiar with this stuff, you could probably learn a thing or two.
Let’s start with the air compressors. I have two of them. If you don’t know much about air compressors, we did a post on them a while back. I have a small, portable pancake compressor that’s perfect for nail guns and it’s size allows me to throw it in my car to work at friends’ or family’s houses. I usually keep that small compressor in the basement with the rest of my woodworking tools. The larger air compressor is more geared toward working on cars. Its large tank size means I can use it for impact wrenches to take off the lug nuts from tires, for example. It’s more suited to air tools that require long duration bursts of air, whereas the pancake compressor can only deliver really short bursts of air like for shooting a nail.
The larger compressor has been in the garage, since it’s more for garage tools. It hasn’t been a huge problem hanging out in there, but it’s been in the way a bit. We come close to hitting it every time we pull the car into the garage. Here’s a picture from the fall with the compressor making a cameo near the steps.
One of the primary goals for this garage clean up effort is to get as much crap off the floor as possible. So our solution for the compressor, which gets covered in cobwebs in the garage, is to move it to the basement. Since I still need access to that large air source, I’m going to run a pipe from the garage to the basement. I’ll use the same fittings that are on my air tools and the compressor to make the pipe basically act like an extension cord for the air. This solution will free up some nice garage floor space.
The first thing I did was locate where I want the pipe to stick out from the wall in the garage. I thought a location underneath the workbench would be ideal.
Now onto the pipe. After doing some internet searches, it seems like the best pipe option to use is either copper or iron pipe. Copper looks lovely, but it’s expensive and I’d need to solder all of my joints, which would be a major pain. Iron pipe seemed like the best option. I believe it’s strong enough to handle the roughly 100 psi of air that I’ll be running through it. Iron pipe is relatively inexpensive and the fittings are all readily available at every hardware store around. Iron pipe is usually used for natural gas.
I’ll start the pipe work by drawing the pipe layout on a piece of paper and getting a shopping list together. When all the parts are bought, I’ll lay them out on the floor to make sure I have everything.
You can see the pipe assembly consists of some straight runs, an elbow, a tee, a few reducers and the air compressor fittings. It’s about $50 in parts.
I’ll start the installation by locating and drilling a hole from the basement ceiling into the garage space. Then I stick the 18″ long piece through the hole with the elbow already attached to the pipe. The pipe sections get joined together with a couple of pipe wrenches. Pipe wrenches are great tools to have around. You usually need two wrenches for this type of work since you need one wrench to hold the pipe and the other to tighten the fitting. I also use both pipe tape and some pipe joint compound when I join two pieces together.
Below is a picture of the pipe leaving the basement going into the garage. The pipe will need to be held in place with some pipe clamps.
Once the pipe is through the wall, the rest is pretty simply. I connect the longest pipe, which runs from the elbow up top down to where the compressor will be located. The longest pipe will have a tee fitting on the end.
You can see from the photo that the compressor connects to the pipe with an air hose that I already owned. The hose is long and flexible and will give me the freedom to move the compressor where I need to. The pipe also has a section that is point towards the floor and it has a little drain valve. Compressed air tends to get moisture in it, especially in the humid summer time. That vertical drop in the pipe allows any condensed water to collect without getting back to the compressor. The little brass valve on the end can be opened and the water can drip out.
The pipe is also secured to the wall with a pipe clamp. The wood is fastened to the concrete wall with some Tapcon masonry screws.
So, here’s how this will work. When I need some compressed air in the garage, I can tap into a compressed air fitting in the garage wall. Here’s what’s sticking out of the wall now. Notice my boo-boo hole. Whoops.
I can then go into the basement and turn on the compressor to give me the air I need. I don’t like to keep the compressor filled with air when I’m not using it, so normally, the pipe won’t be pressurized. I also have the option of using the big compressor in the basement if I ever wanted to. All I have to do is unplug the red hose from the pipe.
It’s worth noting that my compressor runs off of electric. I could never move a gas powered compressor into my basement since the exhaust fumes would be poisonous. Also, I need to add some fire-blocking foam around the hole I drilled into the garage. I’ll show what that looks like when I add the outlet.
Down the road, when we finish the basement, I’m going to have a workshop area. I can always add another tee on the black pipe and run another couple branches around the basement to provide air to various workstations. This whole compressed air system for a garage, basement or workshop is pretty common among carpenters. It’s a convenient little feature that saves us some garage space.
Posted in DIY Projects,Garage and Tools. Tagged in ,compressed air, compressors
Posted by John on August 8th, 2013
Back to home improvement projects. One of the big goals we had in our Spring and Summer Plans post was to really straighten out our garage situation. When we started, it was cluttered, loaded with spiders and insects and needed to be cleaned as well as repainted. So far this summer, we managed only a few minor garage related projects: relocating our baby strollers, bug proofing the garage windows and adding a pegboard above the workbench. We’re aiming to get as much stuff off the floor as possible and to that end we’ve been heavily using hooks for organization. We’re hoping that if we DO get all of our junk off the floor, there’s a good chance there will be less places for insects to hide.
I wanted to show you one of the ways we’re using inexpensive hooks from the hardware store to de-clutter. Normally, we’d hang stuff from them, but they can also be used to restrain objects against the wall.
Like this ladder for example:
Instead of putting the entire weight of the ladder onto the bracket, the ladder rests on the concrete foundation below it and the bracket just keeps it from falling over.
Bye bye spider eggs.
We also used this wall anchor approach with our last baby stroller. This baby stroller is a double seat model, it’s a bit heavier than the other two and there’s no simple place to hang it on the wall. So I decided to anchor it to the wall by one of its wheels.
The other thing we mounted this week was the saw horses. Since I mostly use these guys for spray painting, they can stay in the garage.
With most of the clean up completed, we’re waiting for a good day to get some painting done in here. Lisa wants the door to the house painted black and we’d love to apply a fresh coat of epoxy paint to the floor.
Posted in DIY Projects,Garage and Tools. Tagged in ,Garage and Tools, hooks, organization
Posted by John on July 1st, 2013
This past weekend, between family reunions and thunderstorms, I was able to validate a new idea for keeping bugs out of my garage windows. As I mentioned in my last post on this topic, we get a good amount of bugs in the garage. We live in a rural area and are up against a wooded lot. It’s one of the few downsides to this particular home site. If you’re in a similar situation, you’re probably familiar with how gross it gets.
Now the way I see it, I have two options: I can clean the window and the shade a few times a year OR I can add some sort of screen to keep the bugs out of the windows. I can cover the inside of the window with a traditional screen, but some bugs WILL still get through and I’m not sure how to integrate the screen with the drywall. To my knowledge, no one has invented a force field yet, so that option is out as well. After kicking around some ideas with Lisa for a few days, here’s what we came up with and I think you’ll like it.
Here’s a great way to bug proof your garage windows:
What we started with…
First thing I did was ditch the paper shade. We’re going to use a slightly higher quality temporary shade made from fabric. You could also use a more traditional faux wood blind or mini shades, but we wanted something simple that didn’t have any cords.
After giving the window a thorough cleaning and touching up the stained drywall with fresh paint, we had a nice looking view.
The fabric shade was next. It has a glue strip and I held it in place with the provided clips.
This particular solution requires a thin piece of wood to sit in the window well flush with the drywall. I ripped a couple pieces of poplar down to 3/4″ x 3/4″ and spray painted them white to match the garage paint.
The painted wood gets a thin bead of caulk on the side facing the wall and gets nailed flush with the window well edge. No fancy joints needed here, butt joints are fine. The size of the wood is small enough that you’ll barely notice it.
Can you tell what we’re doing yet? No? Here’s the deal.. we’re going to cover the window opening with a clear sheet of plastic that is used to insulate single pane windows in older homes. It uses double-sided tape to attach to the wall and it requires a wooden surface to hold onto.
Here’s what the product looks like…
You can buy it at any hardware store. It comes with a roll of double-sided tape that you can promptly throw out. It’s absolute crap. It sticks to your fingers WAY better than the painted wood, for which it’s designed. Instead, buy a roll of heavy duty double-sided carpet tape. It’s supremely strong and comes in clear. It’s going to be wider than what you need, but you can cut the excess off with a box cutter.
****UPDATE: I’ve switched tape products from double sided carpet tape to Scotch brand 3/4″ x 350″ two sided tape.****
I rolled the tape over the wood, trimmed off the extra and peeled off the backing of the tape. Now we’re ready for the plastic sheet. It’s a little tricky to hang, but I managed to attach it to the tape without many big creases. Small creases will get corrected in the next step, but bigger folds need to be fixed by un-attaching the plastic from the tape and re-attaching it.
With the plastic sheet over the window, the excess plastic around the window was cut with a box cutter to give it a cleaner look. The plastic is then tightened with a blow dryer set to high temp. The blow drier removes nearly every little wrinkle and leaves the plastic wrap tight like a drum. You may have to reapply some tape if it peels off and retighten it depending on how well the tape holds.
You’re left with a clean window well that lets all of the light in, but not a single bug. If you look closely, you can see the reflection off the clear plastic.
It even looks solid from outside.
It’s a simply solution that you can whip up with some scrap wood and it sure beats cleaning up bug guts!
So I’ve only finished the center window. Looks like I’ll be busy this week.
****Update #2: If any of the double sided tape starts to peel off the wood, use contact cement to re-adhere it.****