Our Spring and Summer Plans

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We’re back.  Just had one of those weekends where we did next to nothing.  No home improvement projects to blog about.  No chores.  Nothing.  Watched a ton of Doctor Who.  It was everything I hoped it would be.  My batteries are officially recharged.

I’m trying to keep up the frequency of our posts, but I’ve been taking some extra time during the week to work on our new blog theme.  I haven’t touched it since Christmas and just decided to start from scratch again.  So far so good.  I think you’ll like it.  Keeping it simple.  In any case, trying to keep three posts a week and make time for a theme build just isn’t happening.  Working in web design or graphic design in general is not an area of strength for me so it’s mostly slow going.

In other news, it’s been a while since we’ve had some direction around here.  We just got done a major carpentry project and dabbled in some concrete work.  I think it’s time for a new to-do list so you know what we’re planning.

With the end of my spring grad class and the weather getting warmer, it’s officially outdoor season here.  While there are still a good amount of indoor projects on our to-do list, the vast majority of our work plans are aimed at exterior projects.

Here is a list of the projects we’re planning on tackling this spring (what’s left of it) and summer.  Most of these ideas are going to be relatively low cost.  We were hoping to get started on a deck build, but have decided to punt that at least into the fall.

garage unorganized1.  Clean and organize the garage.  Our garage is the bane of Lisa’s existence.  It’s dirty, unkempt and filled with bugs year round.  This is now priority numero uno.  In order to bring the garage up to something more tolerable, we have a series of tasks slated for this space.

  • Apply another coat of epoxy on the floor
  • Add shelves and additional storage
  • Do something about our God-forsaken window treatments
  • Add stroller storage
  • Paint the interior door black
  • Dress up the stairs

side flower bed2.  Flower bed fix ups.  Time to bring these once proud flower beds up to snuff.  Our front beds are in decent shape, but our side beds are overgrown and are in need of re-edging and some additional work.

mailbox flowers(via Greengardenista)

3.  Flower bed by mailbox.  Remember this pin?  We’ve been pining after this look for months.  It’s time to make it happen.  Hoping we can make a big improvement to a small space.

landscape lights4.  Add more exterior lights.  One of our first posts when we started blogging was the landscape lighting we added.  I’d like to make the exterior of the house pop a bit more and take care of some dimly lit areas.  A couple more spot lights should do the trick.  Oh and I need to take some quality SLR shots of the house lit up at night.

drip irrigation5.  Drip irrigation.  Also one of our earlier series of posts.  I bought enough supplies to take care of the entire perimeter of the house, but still need to add the system to one of our side flower beds.  You’ll get a refresher on drip irrigation installation.  Piece of cake.

6.  Add motion sensors to our exterior spot lights.  Quick. Easy.  Need to do it.

flower bed7.  Shed flower bed.  After we built our shed, I gave it a rectangular flower bed that wrapped around its three sides.  Looks okay, but is impossible to cut easily with a riding mower.  I’m going to reshape the beds to make this sort of maintenance easier by incorporating curves.

These last two are inside-the-house projects, but so what.

family room8.  Family room trim.  Our family room is big and plain (old photo).  We’ve been kicking around some ideas on how to add some character and interest without breaking the bank.  Keep an eye on our Pinterest activity in the near future for hints of what we’ll be doing.  I’d ideally love to be done with this project before I start my last grad course at the end of August.

9.  TV Console.  Thought I’d be knee deep in plywood by now, but think this one may wait for a rainy day.  See this post for more info on this project.

Ambitious list?  Sure is.  I work better with longer lists.  Gives me something to shoot for.

What’s on your spring/summer to-do list?

Hang Mod Podge Letters the Easy Way

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With my spring grad class finally over, I get a lot more free time back.  It’s awesome.  As much as I love learning, I also love… not learning.  Lisa has a long laundry list of things for me to do around here, which mostly consists of finishing projects I either already started or promised to start.  yay.  Today we’re going to show you one of those quick projects we already managed to finish.  Here’s how to hang mod podge letters the easy way.

We started out with white letters that hung above our first daughter’s crib in the nursery.  When we moved her into her new toddler bedroom, we wanted to move the letters with her, but decided to dress them up a bit.  Lisa traced them onto some scrap book paper from Michael’s.  We used a different pattern for each letter.  I think it’s the same paper as the birthday pennants she made some time ago.

mod podge letterWith the patterns traced and cut out, she applied a liberal amount of mod podge to the face of the wooden letter and the back of the pattern paper.  Then they get pressed together until dry.

wooden letter with mod podgemod podge on paper letterNow for leveling and mounting them… When we had these letters over the crib in the nursery, we used screws and the holes in the back of the letters.  It wasn’t hard to install, but it was a giant pain to get them all level, since the screws holes in the letters were all in different spots.  Plus, these letters didn’t come with a template or anything.  Not fun.

command stripsThis time around, we skipped the screws and just used double sided command strips.   How about leveling them?  That part was easy too.  We took the sticker off the command strip and just rested them on a level.  Once we got the spacing right, we firmly pushed the letters onto the wall.  They’re not going anywhere.

letters on levelSo much easier this time.  Those command strips are pretty sweet and this isn’t even a sponsored post or anything.

Have you found easier ways to do things the second time around?

 

DIY Concrete Planter

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Happy Mother’s Day!  Hope you had a great holiday.  We pretty much hung out with our families all weekend.  Good stuff.  Good stuff.  Ate too much.

Today I wanted to bring you a quick how-to on making concrete planters.  Last week we shared the results of our attempt to make a monogrammed planter.  While we didn’t get exactly what we were shooting for with the monogram, the actual planter (sans monogram) looks pretty good.  We’re going to work on that monogram later, so stay tuned.  We’re going to get it right.

As for the planter, the directions I followed came from Popular Mechanics.  I used the exact dimensions they provided in their plans.  Their procedure, however, called for some different materials, which I opted to change for convenience.

Materials:

Popular Mechanics used a regular plywood board for the concrete forms that you seal or cover with aluminum foil.  It may have been MDF (I dunno, I actually didn’t read the article, I just looked at the pictures, lol).   So I used melamine.  When I made concrete countertops, that was done using melamine for the forms.  It’s what the concrete counter people recommend.  If you’re not familiar with melamine boards, they are just particle boards that are laminated with a hard, smooth, typically white layer of… something.  The white surface is impervious to water.  Melamine is usually used for either cabinets or shelving.  You can typically find it in the shelving isle at your local home improvement store.  It’s not expensive.  I used the 3/4″ thick stuff.

Concrete:

I used the 5000 psi mixture from Quikrete.  You can use a regular 80 lb bag of concrete too though.  Plan on one 80 lb bag of concrete per planter of the size in the article.  The planter ends up being around 80 lbs when you’re done.  Concrete is cheap, btw, around $5 per 80 lb bag.

Colorant:

Quikrete makes a colorant you can add to the concrete mixture to change the color.  If you don’t color it, it will end up being the same color as a sidewalk.  Nothing wrong with that, if that’s what you’re shooting for.  We used a half bottle of the black colorant for our planter and it’s not that black.  You add the colorant to the water before you add it to the concrete.

Tools you’ll need:

1. Drill and screws
2. Silicone caulk
3. Circular saw or table saw

To start, you cut all the melamine pieces for the form.  The form pieces are listed in the article.  I added the V letter to the board that’s the front of the planter.  I calked it to the melamine and then caulked around the perimeter of the letter.

monogrammed concrete planter 1monommonogrammed concrete planter 2

monogrammed concrete planter 3You basically make two planter boxes for the form, an inner and an outer.  The outer is where the letter goes, if you’re adding one.  As I assembled it, I applied a bead of silicone caulk to all the exposed edges of the melamine to keep the particle board from soaking it in and expanding.  I also applied silicone caulk to any joint where to melamine boards met to keep any liquid concrete from running through the seams.  All the boxes were joined with either nails or drywall screws.

The inner box gets mounted to a larger board.

concrete planter mold With the smaller box mounted to the bottom board, I place the outer box over the assembly.

concrete planter mold 2Before adding the concrete, I coated three small wooden dowels in vaseline.  They will serve as forms for the drip holes in the bottom of the planter.  You don’t need to nail them or anything.  Actually, they get smushed down into the concrete after you’ve poured it and can be taken out before the concrete fully sets.

concrete moldIn case you were wondering, you pour this planter upside down.  You need to work the concrete into the form with a stick or some other type of hand tool.  A stick works fine though.  Obviously, if you’re adding some sort of severe letter, you need to do a better job than I did with the concrete around the letter.

With the concrete in the form.  I used a random orbital sander pressed against the form to shake the air bubbles out of the concrete.

concrete planter mold 3I let the concrete cure overnight and then just started popping the sides off the form with a crow bar and a hammer.  The article makes it seem like you can just pull the inner form out from the outer form.  Yeah, good luck with that.

concrete planter 4After banging all the form pieces off, you’re left with the planter.

DIY concrete planterSo, lessons learned:

  • The melamine boards were difficult to remove and seemed pretty firmly stuck in there.  The article used a different material than melamine and talked about aluminum foil.  The hardest part was removing the inner form.
  • The black dye only gave us a dark grey planter.  If you wanted it darker than that, use more than half the bottle per bag of concrete
  • I should’ve coated the letter with either cooking spray or vaseline.
  • Don’t come into the house covered with concrete and sawdust and ask your wife for vaseline for the wooden dowels.  She’ll think you’re being weird.

How much did this cost?  About $35.  That’s not bad though.  I’m pretty sure store-bought concrete planters are expensive.  Plus, if you’re able to customize the size or add some personalization, you’ll be saving booko bucks.

So what do you think… is this something you’d attempt?

 

Pinterest Challenge: Monogrammed Concrete Planter

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It’s Pinterest Challenge Day everybody!  It’s like “show and tell” for bloggers… times ten.  Since the weather has been getting warmer, the yard has been on our minds more often lately.  What better way to kick off our outdoor season than with garden style Pinterest Challenge project.  We attempted a somewhat ambitious project and decided to make a monogrammed concrete planter.

Here’s one of the pins that inspired this project..

lowes concrete planter(via Lowes)

We already had SOME experience with concrete when we made those concrete counters way back in 2007.  This planter was a little different than the counters though.  It was considerably easier, but the approach was the roughly same.  I found a basic procedure on Popular Mechanics website that I followed dimensionally, but I used some different material.

Here’s what the form looked like with the concrete poured.  We’re going to do a full-blown “how-to” post or at least a lessons learned post on this (probably next week), but today we’re just doing an overview.

concrete planter formAfter the concrete cured, I popped the planter out of the form and here’s what we have.

black concrete planterIt looks pretty good dry and it looks sick when it’s wet.

But hang on… wasn’t this supposed to be monogrammed?

We DID monogram it.  On one side.

But, that part didn’t come out as hot.  We used a metal “V” from Restoration Hardware, which is the initial of our last name.  The idea is we’ll have two of these on our front porch with a small green plant of some type.  Very personal.  Very unique.

monomonogrammed concrete planterSo the concrete didn’t fully settle into the form around the “V”, obviously.  The worst part is, I was hoping to be able to pop out the V and use it on the next one.  Thought it would look pretty cool as a relief.  We also wanted to make one to see how it worked and make a matching one later.  Now I can’t get the letter out! LOL!

Did I mention that’s the only V I had and Restoration Hardware doesn’t sell anymore!  Whoops.

monogrammed concreteOh well.  Still looks cool though.  Weighs about 80 lbs.

So, when I make the next one… I’m going to take some extra concrete and fill in that space near the V so this one won’t look weird.

In the meantime, we’re going to turn the one planter around and stick with the solid side ;)   So it’s not a total loss.  Fun project.

Oh and we decided to wait to on the plant until we’ve got both built and ready to go.

DIY concrete planterHere’s a link to our last Pinterest Challenge Project, the Reclaimed Wood Frame with a map.

So, here’s the rundown on the Pinterest Challenge.  It’s hosted by four bloggers.. this season it’s…

Katie from Bower Power
Sherry from Young House Love
Emily from Sparkle Meets Pop
Renee from Red Bird Blue

So pop on over to their blogs and check out all the projects!  We’ll be back on Monday!

How to Add Trim to Cabinets

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Hey all! Hope everyone is doing well. Had another productive weekend around here. We got a huge jump on our Pinterest Challenge project. Stay tuned for that! We posted a couple hint photos on our Instagram account.

Last week, we wrapped up our sitting room built-in. I also promised a quick post on how to add trim to cabinets to make them look more “built-in” and less free standing cabinet. The process is pretty simple and can be used on any type of cabinet. There are a number of blog posts out there about turning ikea bookshelves or stock kitchen cabinets into built-ins. Adding trim can really add some depth to their look.

Here’s how to add trim to cabinets..

We start with the baseboard molding. When I installed the cabinets, I removed the baseboard molding on the wall where the cabinet was being installed. Made things easier.

baseboard trim on a cabinetBefore I add the new piece though, I’m going to add a couple thin strips of wood to the side of the cabinet. The cabinet front overhangs the sides by about 1/4″ and if I try to install the baseboard molding without a shim, it won’t look right. Adding a strip to the top and bottom help keep the molding solid against the cabinet.

shim on cabinetThe molding on the wall is cut square on the cabinet side and just butts up into the cabinet. The molding that goes on the cabinet has a coped joint on the left side and a miter joint where it meets the front. After it was installed, I caulked and painted the molding. To make this job easier, it helps to pre-paint all the trim then all you need to do is some touch-ups after it’s installed. Last thing you want to be doing is painting that close to carpet.

baseboard trim on cabinet

built-in molding 2Now for the crown molding..

There are a couple ways to approach crown molding on cabinets. You could do option A, like John and Sherry did in their kitchen, which is to add a strip of wood on top of your cabinets. This method is perfect for already existing cabinets that don’t have a lot of width up top to accommodate the 1/2″ or so of crown molding that will need to make contact with wood.

Option B, let’s call it, is to skip the extra piece of wood and nail the crown molding right into the face frame of the cabinet.  This option works if you DO have a lot of space near the top of the cabinet.  In the case of our built-in, we’re going with option B.  Actually, I designed the top cabinet to have that extra 1/2″ space.. another benefit of building your own stuff.

To get started, I measured about 1/2″ down from the top of the cabinet and made some pencil marks.  I’m also adding a shim up here as well.  Oh and if you look closely at the next picture, you can see some splintering at the edge of the plywood.  That’s from using a saw blade that wasn’t as sharp as it should have been.  It’s okay though, because it’s getting hidden by a shim and crown molding.

crown molding on cabinetshimming crown moldingNow, how to cut crown molding… It helps if you use a special crown molding jig, which you can pick up from Amazon or Lowes.  The jig keeps the molding at the right angle for cutting.  What’s the right angle?  Well, crown molding has two flat surfaces that are 90 degrees from one another.  Both of those surfaces need to be 90 degrees on the miter saw when you cut them.  Crown molding jigs help to lock the molding in that position.

how to cut crown moldingYou also need to cut them upside down.  That can be tricky.  It helps if you think about the molding and the piece you are installing it on as being upside down too.  For real, find some crown molding that already installed somewhere and look at it if you were standing on the ceiling.  It would look just like normal baseboard molding if you look at it from that perspective.  The challenge is thinking about it like that when you are standing in front of your miter saw.  It’s tricky.  I’ve installed a lot of it and it still throws me for a loop.  I had to buy 3 pieces of crown molding for this project because I messed up the cuts twice.  It happens.  Crown molding takes practice.

I’ll probably do a more intensive how-to video or a dedicated post on it as some point, but for this post I just wanted to show you the basics of adding trim to cabinets.  Crown molding on walls is roughly the same, but requires a little extra work.

But seriously though, think about it upside down.

crown molding miter sawcrown molding on cabinet 2When marking the crown molding for the cuts, I like to leave the first piece long and mark it for length right on the cabinet instead of measuring it with a measuring tape.  Just make a mark where it meets the front edge.  Your crown molding should just touch the 1/2″ marks you made earlier, which will ensure that your molding is level… as long as your cabinet is level that is.  I used a brad nailer with a 3/4″ nail for all of this work and I skipped the glue.

crown molding on built-inSo that’s crown molding and baseboards on cabinets.  Not too hard and it makes a world of difference.

Later this week I have a final exam and then I’m done grad school for the summer!  That means a summer blog theme face lift and more outdoor projects!  Only one more course in the fall too.  Can’t wait.