Posts from November,2011
Posted by John on November 29th, 2011
This Thanksgiving weekend, despite all the gratuitous turkey related napping, we were able to get a few hours of work done on our trim upgrades. We finished up the installation portion of the chair rail molding that we has started last week. We still have to caulk, putty and paint, but we’ll do all of that at once when we’re done ALL the trim. Yes, there’s more trim work coming so stay tuned.
Since the last portion of the chair rail molding will be installed on a 45 degree wall, I thought I’d to a quick tutorial on how to install trim on odd angled walls.
****WARNING: Although this procedure DOES apply to crown molding, the crown molding will need a special jig to hold the piece to the proper orientation, as we found out this weekend (Ed, talking about you here). ****
How to install trim on odd angles.
1. To start this procedure, I have already marked the wall at 36″ up from the floor (again, see here for the basics of trim installation).
2. I’m going to use a t bevel to help me identify the angle of the wall. Although I know this wall is a 45 degree angle wall, I’m still going to measure it anyway. You could also use a protractor or a couple of rulers. To use a t bevel, loosen the lock nut, position the bevel against the wall making sure both pieces lay flat against both walls and then tighten down the lock nut.
3. Since I don’t have a protractor, I’m going to use the next best thing, my miter saw. With the saw unplugged, I place the t bevel square against the backstop and then turn the saw’s miter until it matches the angle of the t bevel.
4. Once I’m confident the saw’s miter is the same angle as the saw, I can look at the miter indicator to see what angle it’s at. In the photo above, the indicator is landed on 45 degrees.
5. I then return the miter back to 0 degrees and then set the saw bevel to half of the 45 degrees that was identified in the previous step. Half of 45 is 22.5. You halve the angle because the corner on the wall splits the angle in half. So you’ll need to two pieces each cut to 22.5. One piece will be cut from the right, the other from the left. The saw is shown at a 22.5 degree bevel.
6. Here we used a small scrap piece also cut to the matching 22.5 degree angle to test fit the long piece. Once the long piece on the left is glued and nailed in place, I’ll toss away the small scrap and install the actual piece. I learned that trick from Norm Abrams.
Here is the other piece installed. Notice the gap against the wall; make sure you account for that when you’re using your small scrap piece as you may need a longer scrap to avoid the dip in the wall from throwing off your test fit. The gap will be filled later on with some painter’s caulk.
So that’s it. Not too bad. Let me know if you have any questions.
Are there any other clever tricks that you know about? Do you own a t bevel? What else could I use it for?
Posted in DIY Projects,Home Decor. Tagged in ,decor, how to, trim
Posted by John on November 28th, 2011
Hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving! Ours was fun and the food was delicious. We got a couple projects around the house done this weekend and we’ll share them throughout the week. But, for now, here are some awesome DSLR pictures for you to feast your eyes upon.
Yeah, so that post just made me really hungry again.
How was your Thanksgiving? Have any great new recipes to share? I promise I’ll like it.
Posted in Cooking,Holiday. Tagged in ,Cooking, fall, Thanksgiving
Posted by Lisa on November 23rd, 2011
Way back when… when John and I were newlyweds we hosted our first Thanksgiving. It was kinda a big deal and of course I had such a great time planning, cooking, and decorating. I thought I would share some photos.
Yummy food (without any mishaps!!)
I always cook the traditional side items including sweet potatoes, stuffing, and green been cassarole. Does anyone have any great Thanksgiving recipes or traditions they want to share!?
Posted in Fall,Holiday. Tagged in ,Thanksgiving
Posted by John on November 21st, 2011
This week we started a new interior project: molding. We’re thrilled to be finally done with the garage and all the outside adventures. We’ll be installing a chair rail molding in our vestibule as well as some crown molding enhancements throughout the house. We decided to add these features before we start the paint. It’s easier to paint afterwards in our opinion.
Here’s what our vestibule presently looks like…
You can see that I’ve already added some chair rail molding on the front wall. We thought about maybe adding some shadow boxing as well, but we decided against it with one of the main reasons being the front door isn’t centered to the vestibule.
Here’s a side view of the profile we put in. We also have it in our dining room.
Here’s our dining room. We have BIG plans for this room. At some point in the future, we’re going to install a ridiculous raised panel wainscoting. Not going to happen this winter, but maybe next!
So, let’s get to it… Here’s how to install chair rail molding.
1. Tools. I used a tape measure, a pencil, a pneumatic brad nailer, a level, some liquid nail and a miter saw.
2. Measure Up. I installed my molding 36″ off the floor to the top of the molding, but you can vary that measurement however you’d like. We got 36″ from our dining room. That’s what all the molding in there is set to. Same deal as our nursery. Take a pencil and measure up from the floor and mark your molding height. These marks will be the top of the molding. Enjoy the 2″ of my boxers.
3. Make a cut. I took a piece of molding and cut it a few inches longer than the length of the wall. I didn’t make any angled cuts here. In fact, I only used one angle cut on this piece. The one end I butted right into the wall and the other I let overhang the wall and I marked the molding for my angle cut.
Butted the right side…
Left the other end long and marked for my cut…
4. Cut the angle and install. I used the pencil mark I made and cut the piece on the miter saw at a 45 degree angle. I tested the piece on the wall to make sure it wasn’t too long then I added glue, level and nailed it on. Very important: Use a piece of scrap cut to the matching angle to match the corner before nailing.
Set the distance…
Nail in place…
5. Coping with inside corners. The other end of this board was not mitered because I’m using a coping method. You could miter both ends then miter the next board into it. The problem with that method is if the walls are not 90 degrees, you’re going to have to mess around with the angles more. If you cope the molding, you’ll get it right the first time.
Here’s how I started this next board:
I measure the space for the next board and cut it to length. Both ends of this board got the same 45 degree angle cut. I hold the cut board up below that space I’m going to install it to check to see that it’s about the right length. I’m going to stop the board before it hits the steps.
Now I start to cope the left angled side. I’m going to remove all the non painted area with a coping saw.
Here’s the coping saw. They’re pretty inexpensive and they’re very useful, especially for crown molding!
So I’m going to cut off all the unpainted area with this saw to reveal the profile of the molding. It’s not difficult, just take your time and try not to make sharp turns. Remove the blade in and out and attack the piece from varying angles.
When you’re done, it should look like this. It does not have to be perfect. The more unpainted area you can remove, the tighter the molding will fit into the other piece. Be sure to flick off the very top and bottom of the cope piece too as they get in the way (they often break off during the coping anyway).
Now glue, level and nail in place. Any gaps will be filled with caulk anyway.
6. Finish off the ends. You’re going to want to finish the ends off with a cap. To make the cap you cut a 45 degree angle into a piece of molding on the opposite side that you’re capping. Then trim off the angle piece you just made with a straight cut. It’s kind of tricky and takes some practice.
So that’s it. Pretty basic. Once all the molding is installed, you can fill the nail holes with wood filler and caulk the seams with painter’s caulk (which we haven’t done yet).
Here’s how it looks as of last night…
So did I miss anything? Any additional tips or insight? Anyone else trimming their place up?
Posted in DIY Projects,Home Decor. Tagged in ,carpentry, decor, trim
Posted by John on November 18th, 2011
Since I’ve been in the market for a new miter saw, I thought it would be a good idea to write a post about all the features that I take into consideration when making a new miter saw purchase. If you don’t have a lot of experience with one of these or are thinking about buying one, then this post may be helpful.
********* WARNING: THIS POST IS FULL OF iPHONE PHOTOS***********
First, let me show you my current miter saw.
This model is a Makita LS1011 that I bought used from craigslist a couple years ago. I had bought it because my other miter saw at the time, a Ridgid, had essentially crapped out. The Makita is a 10″ sliding compound miter saw. Shortly after I bought it, it started to show some signs of wear. One of the buttons fell out. I replaced it though, with a cement board screw. Yeah.
You may also notice that the blade guard is missing, making this saw a total hazard. Immediately after I bought it, I changed the blade out and I couldn’t figure out how to put it back together, so I just left it off.
So, I’ve been looking around for a saw for about a month now and yesterday I went out and bought a DeWalt 717. It’s also a 10″ sliding compound miter saw that has a lot of positive reviews. Best part of my purchase today was the 10% discount I got because the box was damaged.
See that handle sticking out of the box? That hole saved me a bunch. Plus the handle was fine.
So here’s the meat of the post: Seven things to consider when buying a miter saw.
1. Use. What are you going to be using the saw for? Are you just doing basic molding or window trim or are you building a deck or a shed and will be cutting much wider pieces of stock? Are you planning on keeping the saw until the day you die or are you looking to just get an entry level saw? Would you like to get into making cabinets or furniture? If you can determine what you’ll be cutting with the saw, selecting a model will be much easier.
2. Price. The main factor for most people when buying just about anything. Miter saws can vary wildly in price from a basic $99 chop saw up to a $1200 Festool Sliding Compound Miter. The bulk of the units are between $200-$500. When it comes to miter saws, in my opinion, you get what you pay for. If you have a price range, my advice is to set a price ceiling and then down select to the saw that has the functionality you’re looking for. DO NOT buy the cheapest saw you can. The more expensive saws are often worth it, but the features may be more than what you’re looking for.
3. Blade Diameter. Miter saws can vary in blade diameter from 8″ to 12″ with the most common probably being the 10″ blade. The size of the diameter blade can determine how thick a piece of wood the saw can cut. A 12″ blade can cut a thicker and wider piece of board than an 8.” My vote here is for the 10″ or 12.” But, personally, I think the 12″ units are too big. The 8″ saws, in my opinion, are not as useful. There’s no room for growth in a 8″ saw, but maybe that’s all you need. Also, bigger blades cost more as do the saws that run them.
4. Miter (above photos). So the miter is the left to right movement the blade makes. Since these are miter saws, they generally all “miter” to some extent. The extent to which the saws miter is variable, but they generally are all capable of an angle on one side of 45 degrees and around 50 on the other.
5. Compound (above photos). The compound is the tilting of the blade head. A single compound miter saw only has a tilt in one direction. A dual compound miter saw tilts in both directions. The tilt allow you to cut stock on angles and the dual option gives you the freedom to position the board in multiple ways. For two cuts on a single compound miter saw, you may need to flip the board over, whereas on a dual compound, you can just tilt the saw head without moving the piece. Get it? It’s another bell and whistle. Personally, I would pop for the dual compound, but it’s not necessary.
6. Sliding (above photos). A sliding miter saw is obviously a saw that slides through the cutting area. It allows the saw to cut very wide boards, considerably wider than non-sliding saws. This feature is expensive and sliding miter saws tend to be heavier since there is more equipment there. Do you need this? You do if you’re going to be building a deck and cutting 12″ wide skirt boards or making built-in furniture.
7. Weight. Really only relevant if you are going to be moving it around a lot. If you plan on setting up this up once and leaving it stationary, then it’s not a factor right? Because your table saw weighs 200 lbs right? If you plan on taking it to job sites or friends’ houses, then you may want to consider getting a smaller more compact model. A 12″ sliding compound miter saw can weigh over 70 lbs! Yikes. I think my DeWalt weighs around 45 lbs.
Hope this helps! We picked this saw up because we started a new project which we’ll post about next week, but here’s a sneak peek.
Anyone have any extra advice on what to look for?